Tag: Indie Pattern

Ottobre Zip Hoodie for Orange Shirt Day

Tomorrow is the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. The day honours the children who never returned home and survivors of residential schools, as well as their families and communities.

It’s informally known as Orange Shirt Day, inspired by the accounts of Phyllis Jack Webstad, who had her orange shirt confiscated in the residential school system.

In honour of the day, I decided to make myself an orange hoodie.

This is the Ottobre Women’s Hoodie. Ottobre normally sells fabric and sewing magazines, but they make a small handful of patterns available for download on Etsy. This pattern was originally in the autumn/winter 5/2007 edition of the magazine (now sold out).

Ottobre is based in Finland and is probably best known for its children’s patterns, but its adult patterns are quite nice, especially its athleisure designs.

Ottobre Magazine places its patterns overlapped on a few pattern sheets, double-sided, without seam allowances. I was hoping the download would be simpler, but nope, it was also overlapped without seam allowances. That means that after taping your home-printed sheets together, you’ll still need to trace out each pattern sheet and add seam allowances. Still, it was worth it.

The drafting is excellent. It’s a longer, fitted hoodie, a bit more of a yoga hoodie, and not boxy at all.

The instructions call for a lot of flatlock stitching – which is best accomplished on a serger. I don’t have one, so I used my regular sewing machine. I could have used a decorative stretch stitch, but after testing, I decided I liked the monochrome look.

This pattern includes ribbing on the cuffs and around the pockets, and seam binding on the neck seam, which gives it a very professional finish.

I forgot to put the grommets in, so no drawstring for me, but the pattern has a very cute drawstring I’ll add next time.

This pattern, like most Ottobre patterns, comes in a large size range (34-52), and it’s designed with a C-cup, and adjusted for extra curves at the larger sizes, which means I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

The fabric is deadstock from Our Social Fabric. It’s a poly-cotton French terry with matching ribbing, and yes, it’s very bright! The pattern calls for fabric with 30% stretch, and this has a bit more. The elastic gross-grain I used to finish the neck seam came from the same place.

The trickiest part was getting the zipper in. The pattern asks for “fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband, width 12 mm”. That’s not easily found on the North American market. I used Heat’n Bond Soft Stretch. The main difference is that this is a double-sided tape. Basting was key!

As usual with Ottobre, the instructions were detailed, but brief, and not illustrated. I wouldn’t recommend the pattern for a beginner. But for someone with a couple hoodies already off the machine, this pattern is excellent.

I’m super happy with this hoodie and I can’t wait to wear it tomorrow.

Summary

Pattern Review: Ottobre Women’s Hoodie, available in sizes 34-52 EU. I made size 46.
Fabric: Deadstock poly-cotton French terry in orange blaze from Our Social Fabric. Cuffs are a rib in the same colourway. 
Fibre content: 68% cotton, 28% polyester.
Notions and Equipment: Separating zipper, Heat n’ Bond Soft Stretch.

Size: 46 
Cost: Pattern: $$10.54. Fabric: $33.80 (though there is enough for another project). Hardware: about $5. 
Sewing Level: Average.
Modifications: Accidentally skipped the drawstrings.
Results: On point!

Waffles for Breakfast: Jalie 3667

Sometimes it’s good to sew something cozy that you know you’ll wear all the time. Yesterday’s project was a waffle shirt using Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude.

This is one of my favourite patterns, and I’ve sewn it many times. It works well in many knits. My favourite is the never-blogged half of a bamboo jersey pyjama set that packs small for travel.

For this version, I didn’t make any changes. I used the regular cuff. There is also a cuff with a thumbhole, but I’m not a fan of the design because the inside ends up unfinished – unlike the standard cuff.

This pattern comes in 27 sizes, from 2T (toddler) to 22 (Women’s), and all are included, making this a steal. The digital version also comes with copy shop files and projector files, but I used the paper version.

The drafting is excellent, and the instructions are clear. Jalie lets you download all their instructions before purchase, so you know exactly what you are signing up for.

This was a super quick sew – there are only seven pattern pieces. I finished the entire thing in an evening. As usual, I used my regular sewing machine, a Pfaff with IDT, rather than a serger.

I purchased my fabric from Black Rabbit Fabrics when they were closing out the last of their knit inventory. This was also a discontinued colour. I paid $15, and I think I might be able to squeeze some pyjama shorts out of the leftover fabric.

This is a cotton waffle knit, but it has some spandex, so the recovery is great. I’d use it again. The colour is peach heather, and this colour is impossible to photograph! But I really like the creamy peach colour.

I am really happy with the results, and I expect this will be in regular rotation, maybe even tomorrow!

Summary

Pattern Review: Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude Raglan Pullovers, available in sizes 2T (toddler) to 22 (women’s). View A. I made size AA.
Fabric: Cotton waffle knit by Kendor in heather peach (now discontinued) from Black Rabbit Fabrics. Cuffs are in a baby rib in the same colourway.
Fibre content: 95% Cotton 5% Spandex.
Notions and Equipment: none.

Size: AA.
Cost: Pattern: $14.98 (though I’ve made this many times). Fabric: $15. Hardware: $0.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: None.
Results: Cuddly!

Guest Sewist: Who Let the Cat Out of the Bag?

This project was an amazing beginning and a bittersweet end at the same time.

One of my favourite pattern companies is oliver + s. They have the cutest children’s patterns and each one is like a mini sewing lesson. I have sewn these patterns for my kids for years, but the last kid just grew out of the largest children’s size. But before packing all those patterns up (at least for a while), I used one to help my youngest with one of her first sewing projects – a bag.

The oliver + s messenger bag in the small size.

The pattern is the messenger bag by oliver + s. I have the book, little things to sew, which includes the pattern, but you can also buy it as a stand alone pattern.

This is a really cute pattern, for a lined bag with two cargo-style pockets in the front, each with a flap, and two small pockets on each side. Of course, you can always add more features, but this was a beginning sewist project.

There are small pockets on each side. Just the right size for a bus pass, or a couple of pens.

This is the small size, which is meant to be a child’s messenger bag, but works well as a cross-body bag for a tween. It carries a notebook, a water bottle, and a card game, or a heap of cuddly friends.

There is lots of room inside.

The outer fabric is the Wilo utility cotton twill in sienna rose from the Fabric Club. The inside is quilting cotton in Bears by Crissie Rodda for Paintbrush Studio Fabrics. The pattern calls for a half-yard of each, but there will be almost enough left over to make another bag.

The outer fabric is a cotton twill, and the inner lining fabric is quilting cotton.

We used cream bias tape throughout. The strapping is matching cream-coloured cotton webbing. There are chrome strap adjusters. The final touch is one of the badges that The Fabric Club sells, in the shape of a cat.

My tween did all the tracing, cutting, ironing, hardware installation, and most of the sewing. I helped with the bias binding. There is quite a bit and it’s a little tricky to get right when you are small, and just learning to sew.

It’s pretty easy to customize the bag, just by choosing the right fabrics.

This project took a bit of time, but the results are definitely worth it. It’s an excellent design, and the instructions are amazing (as usual with oliver + s). And best of all, it gets a lot of use. I would strongly recommend the pattern, especially for beginning bag-makers looking to make something really unique.

Summary

Pattern Review: The messenger bag by oliver + s.
Fabric: Wilo utility cotton twill in sienna rose from the Fabric Club. The inside is quilting cotton in Bears by Crissie Rodda for Paintbrush Studio Fabrics.
Notions and Equipment: Bias binding, metal strap adjusters and a patch.

Size: small.
Cost: Book: This was a gift, but the book little things to sew retails for about $30. Fabric and hardware: About $20.
Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, and I’d agree.
Modifications: None.
Results: Purrrrfect!

A patch adds a little something extra.

Red Flannel Plaid for Fall: Komugi Over Shirt

Who doesn’t want a new red flannel jacket? I have been coveting a plaid overshirt for ages, and this one is pretty close to my dream jacket.

The Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns in red, windowpane plaid.

I used the Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns. I wanted a chore coat/shacket/overshirt, and I chose this pattern because it has a lot more shape than other patterns. I didn’t want too boxy a fit. The front of this jacket includes a dart, and the side seams are essentially low-curve princess seams.

I made some changes to the fit. I did an FBA (as usual) and this worked really well. I normally lengthen the sleeves, but the sleeves on this pattern are already a bit long, so this wasn’t necessary.

I made the size 46, which is one size up from my measurements. I was hoping it would be oversized, but it is a more classic fit. If I made this again, I would go up another size. The arms were a bit tight, so I switched to a 1/4″ seam allowance in the sleeves. If I make this again, I might add just a bit of width. I chose View B, and included the back vent.

I included the back vent.

This pattern is rated Intermediate, but I would say it’s really advanced.

The pockets are designed in a clever way to keep all the seams nicely finished, but the design is finicky and hard to get right. I ripped out the pockets three times trying to get it right and had to put this jacket in the naughty corner for a while, and work on a different project for a while.

The pocket opening, seen from the outside.

When I finally got them in, I found the pockets to be extremely small, barely large enough for my phone and too small for my hands. So I designed my own pockets to replace them.

I made pockets that are much larger – both wider and deeper – and created a separate inside pocket for mittens in the fall by keeping the inside top open.

I didn’t have enough fabric left to use flannel to remake the pockets. Instead, I used chambray, which has the advantage of being thinner. In retrospect, this was a much better choice for the pockets.

If I made this again, I would use the same pocket design and have them extend across the full width of the jacket front. I left off the top chest pocket.

The inside of the jacket, showing the new, larger pocket design that includes an inner pocket for mittens.

I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.

I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.

I used Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. This is a heavier-weight flannel and is well-suited for this type of garment. It was very easy to work with. It also doesn’t shrink like less expensive flannel. I used the “wrong” softer side on the outside, and the slightly nubbly side on the inside.

I got this fabric from Rives et Co. when they closed their business last year. It’s so sad to see indie fabric stores close. 🙁

This is a windowpane plaid, and I’m really proud of the plaid/stripe matching job I did.

This pattern calls for 2.2m of fabric with a width of 140 cm for View B. I used 2.5m of fabric with a width of 112 cm. It was a remnant.

I used black chambray for the elbow patches and inner pockets.

The elbow patches are made from some black chambray I had left over from another project. I used some printed ribbon to make a jacket hanging loop.

I added a jacket hanging loop using printed grossgrain ribbon.

I switched out the buttons the pattern called for with Prym anorak snaps in black. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install them, and I love this tool! Definitely worth the money. They were so easy to use, super fast, and the snaps were very securely installed. Also, so much quieter than a hammer late at night when you just have to add the snaps to finish, but everyone else is sleeping.

Summary

Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Komugi Overshirt, available in sizes EU 32-54. View B. I made size 46.
Fabric: Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red.
Notions and Equipment: Prym anorak snaps in black.

Size: 46.
Cost: Pattern: €12.50. Fabric: $31.25. Hardware: About $10 for snaps.
Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say advanced.
Modifications: FBA. Switched from buttons to snaps, made the pockets larger. Skipped the top chest pocket.
Results: Cozy!

Something Small

Sometimes, it’s nice to sew something that is quick and easy and almost guaranteed to succeed. This is one of those projects.

It’s a small drawstring bag I made in between other projects. It was a gift.

The pattern is the Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns. It comes in eight sizes and this is the smallest. My finished bag is about 4.5″ by 3.25″ by 1.5″(or 11.5 cm by 8 cm by 4 cm).

This really is tiny – just the right size for a handful of dice. It’s not the first time I’ve used the pattern. You can see some other examples in an older post.

I used quilting cotton left over from a quilt I made. The flat cord is from Our Social Fabric, a non-profit fabric store selling donated deadstock fabric and supplies.

This pattern is pretty foolproof and I’d highly recommend it.

Summary

Pattern Review: Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns.
Fabric: Quilting cotton (from my stash).
Sizes: Available in eight sizes. This is the “Tiny” size.
Cost: Pattern: $9 (but made four times). Fabric: 0$.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: I used cord instead of fabric ties.
Results: Great!

In the Limelight: Jalie 3355

I was so happy with the last sweatshirt I made, that I decided to make another.

Apparently, lime green is on trend, and so are the 90s – though maybe not this part of the 90s. Lol. Hopefully this reads a bit more Colors of Benetton and a bit less Fresh Prince of Bel Air. Either way, it’s lots of fun.

I have a couple more lime green pieces in the sewing queue, so hopefully I can get some full outfit photos soon.

The fabric is a cotton french terry from  l’Oiseau Fabrics that I bought ages ago. The lime green cotton ribbing is leftover from some t-shirts I made when my kids were really little.

This pattern is Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. Jalie uses their own sizing system, and this is size AA. This is this is the equivalent of a size 14 in ready-to-wear.

The pattern instructions say to “use the size corresponding to full bust
measurement for the sweatshirt”. Haha! No. Don’t do this. I mean, I know I’m a D-cup, but this is a knit!

I did try this first, but the sweatshirt was huge and very unflattering. It would be “ok”, if you had a drapey fabric and were looking for an oversize look. And yes, this is on trend right now! But for this project, I wanted something a bit more “standard” in terms of sizing. And the fabric I used is a more structured cotton terry.

So I recut in the size that matched what I usually buy in a ready-to-wear sweatshirt (two sizes below what the pattern maker recommends), and that was indeed the right size.

I made a couple of changes. The neck band looked a little wide in lime green, so I made it a bit more narrow. I think it would look great as is, if I had chosen monochromatic ribbing though.

I added a little tag to the back so you can tell which way the shirt goes.

I also removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length. I didn’t want this to look cropped, but I also didn’t want it too long. This fabric is a bit structured, so it doesn’t pool nicely at the waist. But in another project, depending on the look you want and fabric you choose, the length might work. With the reduced length, the waistband just covers the waistband of my jeans.

If I make this again, I might make the body narrow a bit more towards the waist, instead of the more rectangular default cut. I have a store-bought sweatshirt like that and I find it’s flattering on my figure. But it will depend on the project.

The instructions were great. Again, I love having the instructions as a PDF download. I usually sew with my tablet nearby, and this is very convenient.

Summary

Pattern Review: Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. View B.
Fabric: Cotton french terry from  l’Oiseau Fabrics and cotton ribbing from my stash.
Size: Available in sizes size 2T (toddler) to about size 22. This is size AA, the equivalent of a 14.
Cost: Pattern: About $14. Fabric: I can’t remember!
Sewing Level: Beginner
Modifications: I reduced the with of the ribbing at the neck, and removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length.
Results: Fun!

Roll the Dice: Lined Drawstring Bags

My kids have gotten into Dungeons & Dragons, so I made them tiny bags to hold their dice.

The pattern is the Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns. It comes in eight sizes and this is the smallest. My finished bags are about 4.5″ by 3.25″ by 1.5″(or 11.5 cm by 8 cm by 4 cm).

They really are tiny – just the right size for a handful of dice.

These were really fast to sew up. The pattern is very clear and this would be a great pattern for a beginner. The pattern maker has also done a sewalong with this pattern and there is an expansion pack.

The larger sizes would make a good replacement for wrapping paper, but here the bag is the gift. These were Christmas gifts, but I have a bit of a blogging backlog, so I’m just posting to these photos now.

The fabric is all from my scrap bin. You can use any quilting cotton, and buy fat quarters of course. But this is also a great stash-busting project if you do any quilting.

Each bag uses three different fabrics, so there is a lot of room for making these really unique. Each bag I made matches the personality and preferences of each of my four kids.

The only change I made was to use cording instead of sewing ties for the bags. That made the project a little quicker and I like the look. The cording was leftover from making gym bags.

Summary

Pattern Review: Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns.
Fabric: Quilting cotton (from my stash).
Sizes: Available in eight sizes. This is the “Tiny” size.
Cost: Pattern: $9. Fabric: 0$.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: I used cord instead of fabric ties.
Results: Great!

Spring Bunnies

What do you need for easter, besides a large quantity of chocolate eggs? Bunnies!

I used a free tutorial from ikatbag.com for Spring Bunnies. This is a very simple pattern – the most difficult part is embroidering the faces.

I used some fleece I had leftover from making Arctic Trapper Hats. It’s maybe a little thick for this project, but I made it work. It does make them a little more hard-wearing.

I used silk embroidery floss for the faces. My embroidery skills are nothing to write home about but these turned out all right. I should probably practise a little. lol

The cutest part of this pattern: tiny bunny tails!

We do a chocolate egg hunt every year and these bunnies helped out and have been dragged around the house ever since.

Summary

Pattern Review: Spring Bunnies from ikatbag.
Fabric: I used some leftover fleece, in two colours, from another project.
Cost: Pattern: $0. Fabric: 0$.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: None.
Results: Great!

A Simple White Shirt

Why do something simple, when you can do something complicated?

I haven’t sewn much in a while, so this spring, when I got out my sewing machine, I decided to sew something just a bit more challenging – a classic white shirt.

The pattern is Liesl + Co.’s classic shirt. It’s fantastic!

The designer behind Liesl + Co. is the same as the one behind oliver + s. Her patterns are like mini-sewing lessons. Everything is presented in detail and you end up a better sewist by following her instructions.

This pattern includes a two-piece collar, tower sleeve plackets with buttons, and a continuous (cut-on) placket or a separate set-in front placket. There are faux-felled seams, double rows of topstitching, and a rolled collar. There are also tutorials for adding a popover front placket, turning the shirt into a shirt dress, or a tiered dress, and several pocket variations.

The best thing about this pattern: separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes.

I wasn’t sure what size to sew. During the pandemic there was a lot of snacking (sigh). Oh well! So I stuck to the measurement chart and ended up sewing the size 14 with a D-cup.

I wasn’t sure it would fit. The whole time I was sewing this shirt, I kept telling myself “It’s just a wearable muslin!”. “This is just practice!” “It doesn’t matter if it doesn’t fit, you’re learning!” And it takes a long time to make a shirt!

In the end, the fit was excellent. I usually buy shirts with some stretch so I can get them closed. I don’t think I’ve ever had a plain white shirt really fit properly. But this one is good, great even! It’s definitely better than any ready-to-wear shirt I’ve worn.

The fabric is some 100% cotton shirting that I got from Our Social Fabric, for about $14. The pattern calls for 2m, and I thought I would make a short-sleeved version of the shirt, but in the end, I was able to Tetris all the pieces onto 1.5m of fabric.

Our Social Fabric is a non-profit and its goal is to keep fabric out of landfills. They sell deadstock and donated fabric. I’m sure this particular piece was part of someone’s fabric stash once upon a time.

If I had to be really picky with the fit, I might add a centimetre or two to the sleeve length (a typical adjustment for me) and a centimetre to the arm with a full-bicep adjustment. I don’t really need it with this fabric, but I’d like to make the shirt again in linen and that has a lot less give. And in some fabric, like flannel, I might go up a size for a relaxed look. But my shirt is very wearable as it is.

The pattern doesn’t ask for interfacing on the sleeve placket, but my fabric was really thin (though opaque!) and sewing the buttonhole caused the fabric to bunch a little. You can barely see it. Still, I’ll probably add some (very lightweight) interfacing if I sew this again in a similar fabric.

I used faux felled seams around the arm on the inside, and everything looks as nice on the inside as on the outside.

This isn’t the first shirt I’ve made of course, but the number of professional features if higher than on any other I’ve made. I’m really happy with the results.

I’m already planning a couple more.

Summary

Pattern Review: Liesl + Co.’s classic shirt, available in sizes 0 to 20. View A.
Fabric: Cotton shirting from Our Social Fabric.
Size: 14, D-cup.
Cost: Pattern: $18.95 USD. Fabric: About $14.
Sewing Level: Intermediate.
Modifications: None.
Results: Fantastic!

Guest Sewist: Flowers for Spring

Over spring break kid #1 decided they wanted to sew something!

Although they’ve made some small hand-sewn projects over the years, this was the first time sewing a garment with a machine. The results were great! Especially for a beginner. I’m a very proud mama.

The pattern is Jalie 4020, the Florence Shirt and Shirtdress. The pattern-maker describes it as follows:

Boxy button-front shirt and shirtdress with band collar, cut-in sleeves finished with a band, and rectangle chest pockets.

I can confirm, it’s exactly as advertised.

This was my first time working with Jalie patterns. All the sizes come on the same sheet of paper (not tissue), nested (generally) and you just trace out the size you need.

The instructions were good, but a bit brief, and printed right on the pattern sheet. However, Jalie also offers stand-alone instructions for all their patterns as PDF downloads on standard printer paper. You can see the instructions for this particular pattern here. I love this! It’s so convenient for screens while you are sewing, especially tablets.

I also appreciate the large size range. It makes it easy to use the patterns more than once, and to grade between sizes.

The pockets are really large. We’ve already sewn this a second time in cotton gauze (photos soon) and in a more drapey fabric they look a bit less boxy. But that’s the design! It’s just like the picture.

This is a nice, easy beginner project – though I helped with the buttonholes and buttons.

There is no tricky piecing and no set-in sleeves – which is unusual for a button-up shirt, but handy when you are learning to sew.

The most difficult part for a beginner was turning the one-piece collar and edge-stitching neatly through all the layers of fabric.

The fabric is a floral cotton poplin – a great fabric for people just learning to sew.

Summary

Pattern Review: Jalie 4020, the Florence Shirt and Shirtdress, available in 28 sizes from 2T to 24. View A (shirt).
Fabric: Cotton poplin from Fabricville.
Size: T. Jalie uses their own sizing system, but this is about a size 14 in Big Four pattern sizing.
Cost: Pattern: $16. Fabric: About $20.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: None.
Results: Great!