Tomorrow is the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. The day honours the children who never returned home and survivors of residential schools, as well as their families and communities.
It’s informally known as Orange Shirt Day, inspired by the accounts of Phyllis Jack Webstad, who had her orange shirt confiscated in the residential school system.
In honour of the day, I decided to make myself an orange hoodie.
This is the Ottobre Women’s Hoodie. Ottobre normally sells fabric and sewing magazines, but they make a small handful of patterns available for download on Etsy. This pattern was originally in the autumn/winter 5/2007 edition of the magazine (now sold out).
Ottobre is based in Finland and is probably best known for its children’s patterns, but its adult patterns are quite nice, especially its athleisure designs.
Ottobre Magazine places its patterns overlapped on a few pattern sheets, double-sided, without seam allowances. I was hoping the download would be simpler, but nope, it was also overlapped without seam allowances. That means that after taping your home-printed sheets together, you’ll still need to trace out each pattern sheet and add seam allowances. Still, it was worth it.
The drafting is excellent. It’s a longer, fitted hoodie, a bit more of a yoga hoodie, and not boxy at all.
The instructions call for a lot of flatlock stitching – which is best accomplished on a serger. I don’t have one, so I used my regular sewing machine. I could have used a decorative stretch stitch, but after testing, I decided I liked the monochrome look.
This pattern includes ribbing on the cuffs and around the pockets, and seam binding on the neck seam, which gives it a very professional finish.
I forgot to put the grommets in, so no drawstring for me, but the pattern has a very cute drawstring I’ll add next time.
This pattern, like most Ottobre patterns, comes in a large size range (34-52), and it’s designed with a C-cup, and adjusted for extra curves at the larger sizes, which means I didn’t need to make any adjustments.
The fabric is deadstock from Our Social Fabric. It’s a poly-cotton French terry with matching ribbing, and yes, it’s very bright! The pattern calls for fabric with 30% stretch, and this has a bit more. The elastic gross-grain I used to finish the neck seam came from the same place.
The trickiest part was getting the zipper in. The pattern asks for “fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband, width 12 mm”. That’s not easily found on the North American market. I used Heat’n Bond Soft Stretch. The main difference is that this is a double-sided tape. Basting was key!
As usual with Ottobre, the instructions were detailed, but brief, and not illustrated. I wouldn’t recommend the pattern for a beginner. But for someone with a couple hoodies already off the machine, this pattern is excellent.
I’m super happy with this hoodie and I can’t wait to wear it tomorrow.
Summary
Pattern Review:Ottobre Women’s Hoodie, available in sizes 34-52 EU. I made size 46. Fabric: Deadstock poly-cotton French terry in orange blaze from Our Social Fabric. Cuffs are a rib in the same colourway. Fibre content: 68% cotton, 28% polyester. Notions and Equipment: Separating zipper, Heat n’ Bond Soft Stretch.
Size: 46 Cost: Pattern: $$10.54. Fabric: $33.80 (though there is enough for another project). Hardware: about $5. Sewing Level: Average. Modifications: Accidentally skipped the drawstrings. Results: On point!
Sometimes it’s good to sew something cozy that you know you’ll wear all the time. Yesterday’s project was a waffle shirt using Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude.
This is one of my favourite patterns, and I’ve sewn it many times. It works well in many knits. My favourite is the never-blogged half of a bamboo jersey pyjama set that packs small for travel.
For this version, I didn’t make any changes. I used the regular cuff. There is also a cuff with a thumbhole, but I’m not a fan of the design because the inside ends up unfinished – unlike the standard cuff.
This pattern comes in 27 sizes, from 2T (toddler) to 22 (Women’s), and all are included, making this a steal. The digital version also comes with copy shop files and projector files, but I used the paper version.
The drafting is excellent, and the instructions are clear. Jalie lets you download all their instructions before purchase, so you know exactly what you are signing up for.
This was a super quick sew – there are only seven pattern pieces. I finished the entire thing in an evening. As usual, I used my regular sewing machine, a Pfaff with IDT, rather than a serger.
I purchased my fabric from Black Rabbit Fabrics when they were closing out the last of their knit inventory. This was also a discontinued colour. I paid $15, and I think I might be able to squeeze some pyjama shorts out of the leftover fabric.
This is a cotton waffle knit, but it has some spandex, so the recovery is great. I’d use it again. The colour is peach heather, and this colour is impossible to photograph! But I really like the creamy peach colour.
I am really happy with the results, and I expect this will be in regular rotation, maybe even tomorrow!
Summary
Pattern Review:Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude Raglan Pullovers, available in sizes 2T (toddler) to 22 (women’s). View A. I made size AA. Fabric: Cotton waffle knit by Kendor in heather peach (now discontinued) from Black Rabbit Fabrics. Cuffs are in a baby rib in the same colourway. Fibre content: 95% Cotton 5% Spandex. Notions and Equipment: none.
Size: AA. Cost: Pattern: $14.98 (though I’ve made this many times). Fabric: $15. Hardware: $0. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: None. Results: Cuddly!
This project was an amazing beginning and a bittersweet end at the same time.
One of my favourite pattern companies is oliver + s. They have the cutest children’s patterns and each one is like a mini sewing lesson. I have sewn these patterns for my kids for years, but the last kid just grew out of the largest children’s size. But before packing all those patterns up (at least for a while), I used one to help my youngest with one of her first sewing projects – a bag.
The oliver + s messenger bag in the small size.
The pattern is the messenger bag by oliver + s. I have the book, little things to sew, which includes the pattern, but you can also buy it as a stand alone pattern.
This is a really cute pattern, for a lined bag with two cargo-style pockets in the front, each with a flap, and two small pockets on each side. Of course, you can always add more features, but this was a beginning sewist project.
There are small pockets on each side. Just the right size for a bus pass, or a couple of pens.
This is the small size, which is meant to be a child’s messenger bag, but works well as a cross-body bag for a tween. It carries a notebook, a water bottle, and a card game, or a heap of cuddly friends.
The outer fabric is a cotton twill, and the inner lining fabric is quilting cotton.
We used cream bias tape throughout. The strapping is matching cream-coloured cotton webbing. There are chrome strap adjusters. The final touch is one of the badges that The Fabric Club sells, in the shape of a cat.
My tween did all the tracing, cutting, ironing, hardware installation, and most of the sewing. I helped with the bias binding. There is quite a bit and it’s a little tricky to get right when you are small, and just learning to sew.
It’s pretty easy to customize the bag, just by choosing the right fabrics.
This project took a bit of time, but the results are definitely worth it. It’s an excellent design, and the instructions are amazing (as usual with oliver + s). And best of all, it gets a lot of use. I would strongly recommend the pattern, especially for beginning bag-makers looking to make something really unique.
Size: small. Cost: Book: This was a gift, but the book little things to sew retails for about $30. Fabric and hardware: About $20. Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, and I’d agree. Modifications: None. Results: Purrrrfect!
Lately, I’ve been getting lots of requests for costumes from the family, and the latest creation is a simple set of knightly tabards and a mantle (a cape) using Simplicity S9775.
Simplicity S9775 with the fleur-de-lis appliqué.
This is a unisex costume that comes in a single size. However, I still made some size adjustments. For my tween, I removed about 4″ total from the width. For my husband, I added the same amount of total width (he’s usually a men’s large). I made View C, which is the shorter length, and skipped the front and back vents. Yes, I realize this will make it more difficult for my knights to ride their horses. lol.
The fussiest part of the pattern is the appliqué, and I recruited my tween to cut out these pieces. There are three different options, and I used two of them. I simply used a zigzag stitch to apply them. This was a costume, after all.
Here, I used the lion appliqué.
The main fabric is mystery fabric from the Seconde Fibre section of The Fabric Club. Their goal with this department is to sell deadstock, remnants, and other unusual fabrics at low prices to prevent them from ending up in landfills.
The fabric I used was possibly drapery. The pattern calls for a woven, but I used a knit. It’s a black burnout knit with a floral brocade-style pattern and a satin-velour finish. Probably, this is mostly synthetic.
I found a small remnant (under 1 m) of the Fabric Club’s majestic satin in red for the appliqués. This is a very beautiful but also very slippery fabric! I interfaced the appliqués with regular interfacing to keep them stable while sewing. I loved the satin so much, I went back to get more for another project (not a costume).
However, this project would have been a bit easier if I hadn’t chosen a fabric as shifty as this, such as upholstery brocade, for example. Sewing the slipperiest satin ever to a knit was challenging. For the heraldic shield, I attached the decorative braid first and that made it easier to attach, and removed the need for seam finishes on the satin as the fabric was completely enclosed.
For an added regal touch I used gimp braid from the upholstery section to trim the tabards. It was also the end of the roll. I used upholstery cord for the belts.
My tween cut out the appliqués, and I attached them using a zigzag stitch. I used upholstery braid for trim.
I had only planned to make the tabards, but there was so much fabric left over I managed to get a mantle as well. I didn’t line it, though – mostly because I didn’t have enough knit fabric for that. I made it as long as possible to use up all the fabric, so it’s a bit longer than the short length. Unfortunately, it was whisked away before I could get a good photo.
This was an extremely easy pattern to sew. I finished both tabards and the mantle in a day. I’d strongly recommend the costume for someone looking for a quick project with great results.
Summary
Pattern Review:Simplicity S9775, Unisex Costume Tabards, Capes and Heraldic Shields in one size. Fabric: Mystery fabric from Seconde Vie, and majestic satin from the Fabric Club in red. Notions and Equipment: Gimp braid and cord from the upholstery section.
Size: One size. Cost: Pattern: $7.22 Fabric: About $20. Notions: About $20 for gimp braid and cord. Sewing Level: Easy according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say very easy. Modifications: I changed the width, depending on the wearer, left out the front and back vents, and did not line the mantle. Results: Ready for adventure!
Who doesn’t want a new red flannel jacket? I have been coveting a plaid overshirt for ages, and this one is pretty close to my dream jacket.
The Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns in red, windowpane plaid.
I used the Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns. I wanted a chore coat/shacket/overshirt, and I chose this pattern because it has a lot more shape than other patterns. I didn’t want too boxy a fit. The front of this jacket includes a dart, and the side seams are essentially low-curve princess seams.
I made some changes to the fit. I did an FBA (as usual) and this worked really well. I normally lengthen the sleeves, but the sleeves on this pattern are already a bit long, so this wasn’t necessary.
I made the size 46, which is one size up from my measurements. I was hoping it would be oversized, but it is a more classic fit. If I made this again, I would go up another size. The arms were a bit tight, so I switched to a 1/4″ seam allowance in the sleeves. If I make this again, I might add just a bit of width. I chose View B, and included the back vent.
I included the back vent.
This pattern is rated Intermediate, but I would say it’s really advanced.
The pockets are designed in a clever way to keep all the seams nicely finished, but the design is finicky and hard to get right. I ripped out the pockets three times trying to get it right and had to put this jacket in the naughty corner for a while, and work on a different project for a while.
The pocket opening, seen from the outside.
When I finally got them in, I found the pockets to be extremely small, barely large enough for my phone and too small for my hands. So I designed my own pockets to replace them.
I made pockets that are much larger – both wider and deeper – and created a separate inside pocket for mittens in the fall by keeping the inside top open.
I didn’t have enough fabric left to use flannel to remake the pockets. Instead, I used chambray, which has the advantage of being thinner. In retrospect, this was a much better choice for the pockets.
If I made this again, I would use the same pocket design and have them extend across the full width of the jacket front. I left off the top chest pocket.
The inside of the jacket, showing the new, larger pocket design that includes an inner pocket for mittens.
I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.
I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.
I used Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. This is a heavier-weight flannel and is well-suited for this type of garment. It was very easy to work with. It also doesn’t shrink like less expensive flannel. I used the “wrong” softer side on the outside, and the slightly nubbly side on the inside.
I got this fabric from Rives et Co. when they closed their business last year. It’s so sad to see indie fabric stores close. 🙁
This is a windowpane plaid, and I’m really proud of the plaid/stripe matching job I did.
This pattern calls for 2.2m of fabric with a width of 140 cm for View B. I used 2.5m of fabric with a width of 112 cm. It was a remnant.
I used black chambray for the elbow patches and inner pockets.
The elbow patches are made from some black chambray I had left over from another project. I used some printed ribbon to make a jacket hanging loop.
I added a jacket hanging loop using printed grossgrain ribbon.
I switched out the buttons the pattern called for with Prym anorak snaps in black. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install them, and I love this tool! Definitely worth the money. They were so easy to use, super fast, and the snaps were very securely installed. Also, so much quieter than a hammer late at night when you just have to add the snaps to finish, but everyone else is sleeping.
Summary
Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Komugi Overshirt, available in sizes EU 32-54. View B. I made size 46. Fabric: Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. Notions and Equipment: Prym anorak snaps in black.
Size: 46. Cost: Pattern: €12.50. Fabric: $31.25. Hardware: About $10 for snaps. Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say advanced. Modifications: FBA. Switched from buttons to snaps, made the pockets larger. Skipped the top chest pocket. Results: Cozy!
One day a loved one might look at your sewing project, and say “Hey, can you make one for me too? Except smaller, and in a very uncompromising fabric?”
And it might look something like this. Lol!
This is a mini-version of the Noodlehead Patterns’ Sandhill Sling.
The pattern normally makes a bag that is 7” wide by 3” deep and 11” tall (17.8 cm x 7.6 cm x 28 cm). For this version, I made a bag that is about 6” wide by 3” deep and 9” tall. The pattern doesn’t come with this size. I just did a little math.
I sourced most of the materials from Our Social Fabric, a non-profit fabric store that sells headstock.
The outside is some sort of mystery water-resistant (water-proof?) technical fabric. It has no give whatsoever, making sewing around those corners tough! Pressing was also extra tricky – this fabric melts easily.
I used iron-on interfacing, but if I had to do it again with technical fabric, I’d use sew-in interfacing.
The striped webbing is also from Our Social Fabric.
I made a few adjustments. Just like last time, I added two d-rings so that the bag can be worn on either shoulder.
I added an internal pocket again, but this time I added a layer of quilt batting to both sides of the pocket. This gives gadgets a bit of extra protection. The batting was left over from a quilting project. This bag fits an iPhone Pro Max with room to spare.
I also added an inner zipper pocket on the opposite side. It’s about the right size for a couple of credit cards. The inside of the bag is made with quilting cotton.
There is a key leash as well. It’s made of grosgrain elastic with a swivel hook. And all the zippers have zipper pulls made of elastic cord.
I sourced the zippers and metal hardware from Wawak.
As a little extra, I included an earbud case. This is the Circle Zip Earbud Pouch from Dog Under my Desk. I used some leftovers from my scrap bin for this.
I also made a matching key fob, to make it a matching set.
I hope it’s a hit!
Summary
Pattern Review: Digital Sandhill Sling by Noodlehead Patterns, available in just the one size. Fabric: Mystery fabrics from Our Social Fabric. Notions and Equipment: Needle: universal 11/80. Zippers in “galena grey” and bag hardware in “nickel” from Wawak. I also used some grosgrain ribbon and elastic cording from Our Social Fabric. Size: One size – miniaturized here. Cost: Pattern: $10 USD (this is the second bag I’ve made with the pattern). Fabric: About $20. Webbing: $3. Hardware: About $15. Although there is enough of the hardware for a second bag, and enough fabric for two. Sewing Level: Advanced, if using technical fabric with no stretch! lol. Average, otherwise. Modifications: I added a swivel cord attachment for my keys, padding, and an extra inner pocket, and a carry handle. Results: Amazing!
The thing about having four kids is that if you make one a quilt, you’re going to make them all a quilt.
This is the quilt for my third. She has very particular tastes and she preferred to choose a pattern, so she would have a better idea of how the finished product would look.
I used Quilty Hearts by Emily Dennis at quiltylove.com. It uses a four-patch design on the bias in pinks, reds and white to make hearts, then adds strips of diagonal sashing.
It’s a very easy pattern to use and the instructions were great. The quilt top came together quite quickly.
I mostly used Art Gallery Fabrics. The prints are all from the Love Struck Fabric Collection and the solids are from their pure solids collection.
For the background I used Kona snow. This is my favourite “white” fabric. It’s just a bit off-white and gives a softer look.
For the backing, I used Moonscape by Dear Stella in Apricot. I chose the wide-back, just to make things a bit easier.
I did all the quilting as straight-line quilting, but it makes an “x” shape – like a kiss! So it’s definitely on theme.
This was a beast to sew on my standard machine, because of the constant switching of directions and the need to roll up the quilt again with many of the directional switches. I’m seriously considering a machine with a higher tower height!
But the results were worth the extra effort – so crinkly! I adore this texture. It’s just heaven. I used cotton batting and cotton thread to help with the crinkly effect.
Quilt Summary
Pattern:Quilty Hearts by Emily Dennis at quiltylove.com
Sometimes, it’s nice to sew something that is quick and easy and almost guaranteed to succeed. This is one of those projects.
It’s a small drawstring bag I made in between other projects. It was a gift.
The pattern is the Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns. It comes in eight sizes and this is the smallest. My finished bag is about 4.5″ by 3.25″ by 1.5″(or 11.5 cm by 8 cm by 4 cm).
This really is tiny – just the right size for a handful of dice. It’s not the first time I’ve used the pattern. You can see some other examples in an older post.
I used quilting cotton left over from a quilt I made. The flat cord is from Our Social Fabric, a non-profit fabric store selling donated deadstock fabric and supplies.
This pattern is pretty foolproof and I’d highly recommend it.
Summary
Pattern Review:Lined Drawstring Bag from Jeni Baker Patterns. Fabric: Quilting cotton (from my stash). Sizes: Available in eight sizes. This is the “Tiny” size. Cost: Pattern: $9 (but made four times). Fabric: 0$. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: I used cord instead of fabric ties. Results: Great!
This isn’t the first time I’ve sewn with a vintage 1990s pattern and it’s unlikely to be the last. It’s a lot of fun, as long as you are prepared to do a little extra work.
I’ve wanted a jean maxi skirt for a while, but I couldn’t find the right pattern – until I spotted Vogue Elements V9997, circa 1999.
This pattern is for an a-line maxi skirt, with carpenter-style pockets, sewn-on fly with fly shield, and belt carriers. And, it wasn’t too expensive. I bought it online through a vintage pattern seller.
Vogue 9997 cira 1999.
I really like the Vogue Elements series patterns. I have a few of these. There are a lot of 90s looks which have come back into style in the past couple of years, but few current patterns that match. Also, these patterns mostly have good lines and quality construction details. Of course, some are a bit dated, but many are not.
I also like that the size range for the series is 6-22. That’s larger than current Vogue patterns offer, per envelope, and accommodates all the bodies in my household. There aren’t options in larger sizes though, if that’s what you need.
V997 wasn’t without its flaws. But more on that later.
Photographing dark clothing is really difficult!
First, let’s talk about the fabric. I used a dark cotton chambray instead of heavy denim. Maxi skirts made of denim tend to be hot, stiff, heavy, and not always very comfortable. I wanted something lighter that I could wear in the heat of summer. This has a little swish.
I bought the fabric in-store at Fabricville. It’s the same fabric I used previously to make another vintage pattern, McCall’s M2220. This fabric comes in many hues, and I have no idea which one this is. It’s just the darkest they had in the store that day. Some of the photos here make it look quite blue, but it’s really a dark indigo. It’s hard to photograph dark clothing.
Skirt front with topstitching details.
I used Gutermann mara thread in bright brown (#405) for the topstitching, and I really like the look. I did double topstitching everywhere, except for the hem. All the inside seams are faux flat-felled.
Belt carriers.
I used a size 12/80 universal needle (this was shirting after all), except on the waistband where I used a 14/90 jeans needle.
Skirt hem.
I used a metal jeans zipper and jeans button. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install the button, and this is one of my favourite sewing tools ever. It’s just so precise! I probably should have gone with bronze hardware to match the thread, but I had silver on hand.
This was also a bit of a practice run on two fronts. First, I’m hoping to make some jeans soon, and I wanted a bit of low-risk practice with topstitching, making pockets, and a jean-style fly. Second, I have some more precious fabric waiting to be sewn into another maxi skirt, and I wanted to test the pattern (coming soon!). So you could call this a very wearable toile.
The fly is a sewn-on jeans fly with fly shield and double top-stitching.
The fly is a sewn-on jeans fly with fly shield and double top-stitching. I love how this is considered an “easy” pattern by Vogue. (sigh)
I added bar tacks. One is so pretty, and I guess the others I’d qualify as adequate. Don’t look too closely! I’d also recommend not sewing your bar tacks through the hem of your skirt. lolcry.
I am very happy with the results, but in the highly unlikely event that you sew with this hard-to-find vintage pattern, you will need to make three (pretty easy) adjustments.
1. Draft a straight waistband
This pattern is described as having a “below-waist” waistband. By this, they apparently mean about 7cm (3 inches) below the waist. That is very low. Dear reader, it is not actually 1999, and I’ve had four kids.
I dutifully cut out the waistband as drafted, but it did not fit. And yet, the skirt without the waistband fit great. This is a curved waistband, and it is possibly the most curved I’ve ever seen, and I’ve sewn a lot of waistbands in my time. It’s just odd. I doubt it would fit most bodies. In any case, this waistband ended up in the trash.
I wanted a high-waisted version of this skirt anyway, so I drafted a very straight waistband. You can read a tutorial that explains what I did here. But essentially, I measured the top of the skirt, then cut out a waistband a couple inches longer on each end, and then transferred the markings and proceeded as per the instructions. An alternative would be to borrow a waistband from another pattern, but a straight waistband worked well with a high-waist and wasn’t especially difficult. It also doesn’t use a lot of extra fabric. I didn’t adjust the skirt panels in any way.
2. Lower the back pockets
Because this is drafted to be low on the hip, if you place the back pockets where drafted, but raise the waist, the pockets will be very, very high. I recommend making the pockets, and adding them at the last possible moment. This way you can pin them to the skirt and get the most flattering placement for your figure. The a-line design means there is lots of room to do this, even when the skirt is fully assembled, and it isn’t too fiddly a task.
Pretty pockets. I used an empty ice cream bucket to trace the circles. You can still see the chalk lines.
My pockets were so000 pretty, but in the end, I decided not to add them. I tried on the skirt with a couple of tops, and I found that if I wore it with something on the dressier side (say, a turtleneck and blazer), the pockets always landed at an awkward point. Without pockets it looks a bit leaner and there were more wardrobe possibilities. That said, if I had used a fabric that looked less like real jeans, I would have included them. With the dark chambray and all the top-stitching, I thought it I had a pretty good “jeans” vibe as it was.
3. Lengthen the skirt
With most big four skirt patterns, there is a little extra length to adjust for folks of different heights. Of course, if you raise the waist on this pattern, you cut into that wiggle room.
This pattern is drafted to be “above ankle”, but I wanted my skirt to be as long as possible without dragging in the dirt. I didn’t lengthen the skirt, and that’s exactly what I ended up with. However, I’m 166cm (5’6″) tall – the exact height this pattern was drafted for. If you are even a little taller, you’ll want to add a little length, just in case. It’s an a-line skirt though, so it isn’t very difficult.
Do you need to adjust the front pockets? I didn’t, and I like the look as is. If they were longer, and you had anything in them, they would bang against your legs when you walked. The back pockets were the correct size as well, though that depends much more on individual morphology.
I ended up with exactly what I wanted. This is an on-trend skirt that I can dress down for summer in the backyard or dress up for work and wear year-round.
Metal jeans button.
Summary
Pattern Review: Vogue Elements 9997 circa 1999, available in sizes 6-22. Length: Maxi. Fabric: Dark wash indigo chambray from Fabricville. This was labelled denim, but it is shirting. I used about 1.5m, even though I had to cut a new waistband. The pattern calls for 2m. Notions and Equipment: Needle: 12/80 universal for most, jeans 14/90 for topstitching the waistband. Gutermann mara thread in bright brown (#405).
Size: 20. Cost: Pattern: $14. Fabric: About $15. Hardware: About $4. Sewing Level: Easy according to Vogue, but I’d say average. Modifications: Raised the waist, cut a straight waistband, and skipped the pockets. Results: On trend!
I have been looking for the perfect sling bag, but they are always never quite right. Good thing I know how to sew!
My needs are pretty simple. I just want to be able to carry the basics without a lot of extra weight, keep everything zipped up for security, and keep everything dry on the occasional hike in the woods.
I chose the Sandhill Sling pattern by Noodlehead Patterns. It’s just the right size. It can carry all my daily basics, and then some. It also can fit an iPad mini (or an e-reader)!
The pattern is excellent in every way. The instructions are incredibly clear, and there is a sew-along with YouTube videos, photos, blog posts, and illustrations. It even has links/QR codes at key points that lead you right to those videos.
The bag comes with an outer zip pocket, and a main compartment with an inside pouch pocket. But if you are making the bag, you can always add extras. I added a swivel cord attachment for my keys, and a carry handle.
The outside fabric is black waxed cotton canvas, which is “cotton impregnated with a paraffin or natural beeswax based wax”. It’s water-resistant, but it feels dry and not at all sticky. Over time, it develops a distinctive worn-in appearance and patina.
This is my first time sewing with cotton canvas. It’s very odd fabric to sew with. In some ways it’s extra easy to work with, because it folds almost like cardboard and stays put. That’s good, because you can’t iron it.
It’s also a 441 gsm (13 oz/yard), which is really heavy fabric. There is one point where I needed to sew through 8 layers of it, and my sewing machine needed a tiny bit of encouragement, but she pulled through! I used a 16/100 jeans needle and that was about right.
The pattern calls for 0.53m of fabric for the outer bag, so I bought 1m which was wider than quilting cotton, and there is so much left! If you cut this carefully, with the accuracy you would cut fabric for a quilting project, there will probably be some extra for another project.
I chose black because I wanted a black bag, because that’s the colour of my soul! It also coordinates with my wardrobe really well. If I used a different colour the waxed cotton look would be a bit more visible.
I’ve used hardware in a colour called gunmetal because there was no black. But I’ve brightened it up with electric blue zippers.
If there is one thing I hate, it’s a black bag interior (how can anyone find anything in there?). So, I’ve used bright lime green quilting cotton for the interior. This was in my deep, deep stash.
There is also a bit of bright blue grosgrain ribbon I used to make the swivel cord attachment for my keys, and a tag on the front of the bag. This came from a deadstock non-profit fabric shop.
I am super happy about how this turned out. It’s a pretty heavy-duty bag but it doesn’t feel heavy when you wear it.
If I had to make it again, I might add an interior zipper pocket. I didn’t think the iPad mini would fit, but now that I do, I would add padding to the interior pouch pocket. I’d add a bit more topstitching, because it will produce a bit more of that crumply waxed canvas look over time. I’d also use a smoother, seatbelt-style webbing, and use that for the handle as well as the strap. But these are very small changes. This bag is amazing. I really love it.
I like the results so much, that I’m thinking about making another, which is good because there are already people at my house asking me when they can have a bag like mine.
Summary
Pattern Review: Digital Sandhill Sling by Noodlehead Patterns, available in just the one size. Fabric: Waxed cotton canvas in black from Blackbird Fabrics for the outside. The inside is made with quilting cotton. The print is from the Jack & Jenny collection by Laurie Wisburn for Robert Kaufman from my deep stash. Notions and Equipment: Needle: jeans 16/100. Zippers and bag hardware in “gunmetal” colour from Wawak. I also used some grosgrain ribbon from Our Social Fabric. The smaller swivel hook was left over from a previous project. I didn’t use interfacing.
Size: One size. Cost: Pattern: $10 USD. Fabric: About $40. Webbing: $3. Hardware: About $15. Although there is enough of the hardware for a second bag, and enough fabric for three. Sewing Level: Advanced, if using waxed cotton canvas. Average, otherwise. Modifications: I added a swivel cord attachment for my keys, and a carry handle. Results: Amazing!
