Rose Tencel Skirt: True Bias Mave

This was my fourth time sewing the Mave Skirt from True Bias – such a great pattern.

The skirt comes in three sizes: maxi, midi and mini. This time I made the mini.

The instructions are very easy to follow. This would be a great project for a beginner sewist – just maybe not in this fabric (details below).

This was a birthday gift for my tween, and I made the size 4 with no modifications. Next time though, I might make this a size up – the length was good (a bit less mini on my tween) but the waist was a bit tight and I had to add a bit of length to the elastic. It’s tough sewing for tweens using adult patterns because the fit and the measurement chart don’t always match.

The fabric is a textured tencel rayon in old rose from Fabricville. The fabric has a lovely drape, but it’s slippery and shifts easily. This is the fourth project I’ve made in this fabric (in different colourways), including a dress, blouse, and a maxi skirt (both unblogged), so I guess I’ve decided the drape is worth it!

The trick is to cut the pieces with a rotary cutter and keep all the pieces flat as you work. The fabric also frays a lot, so it’s good to get it sewn up quickly and seam finish as soon as possible. French seams work best, but I used zigzags here as the gathering makes french seams tricky. I did a baby hem.

I love this little skirt! So cute! Hopefully it will get a lot of wear 🙂

Summary

Pattern Review: True Bias Mave skirt available in sizes 0-30. Length: Mini.
Fabric: Old Rose Tania textured tencel rayon from Fabricville. I used 1.1m of fabric, but modified the cutting layout a bit to do so. Needle: universal 9/70.

Size: 4.
Cost: Pattern: $16. Fabric: About $15.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: None.
Results: Cute!

Spring Bunnies

What do you need for easter, besides a large quantity of chocolate eggs? Bunnies!

I used a free tutorial from ikatbag.com for Spring Bunnies. This is a very simple pattern – the most difficult part is embroidering the faces.

I used some fleece I had leftover from making Arctic Trapper Hats. It’s maybe a little thick for this project, but I made it work. It does make them a little more hard-wearing.

I used silk embroidery floss for the faces. My embroidery skills are nothing to write home about but these turned out all right. I should probably practise a little. lol

The cutest part of this pattern: tiny bunny tails!

We do a chocolate egg hunt every year and these bunnies helped out and have been dragged around the house ever since.

Summary

Pattern Review: Spring Bunnies from ikatbag.
Fabric: I used some leftover fleece, in two colours, from another project.
Cost: Pattern: $0. Fabric: 0$.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: None.
Results: Great!

Pretty in Pink: Jalie 3355

For spring, my youngest asked for a hoodie. It had to be in her favourite colour: dusty rose. It also had to be incredibly soft. Believe it or not, I’ve never made a sweatshirt before!

I found the softest bamboo fleece ever. It’s a rayon-bamboo blend. After touching it, I think everyone in the house wants a hoodie too.

The pattern is Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. It’s an extremely easy pattern – just a few pieces.

The only change I made was to use the same fabric as bands for the cuffs and waistband, instead of ribbing. That meant making the waistband a little larger as the fleece doesn’t stretch quite as well as ribbing does. I did buy ribbing online, but it didn’t match as well as I’d hoped.

Jalie uses their own sizing system, but this is the equivalent of a kids’ size 152. It’s a little oversized but in a nice way. It’s also a little on the long side. This is perfect for this particular kid, because she’s going to wear it with leggings most of the time, but if I made it for myself, I might shorten it a little. I also found the front kangaroo pocket a little small. Next time, I’ll grab a larger sized pocket from the pattern.

Jalie patterns include the equivalent of size 2T (toddler) to about size 22, depending on the pattern. That means that I really can use this pattern for everyone in the house. So it’s a simple pattern, but likely to be used many times.

I don’t have a serger – I used a regular machine with a special jersey stitch for the most part, and a stretch straight stitch on the hood and pocket. This worked very well.

I’m pretty happy with this project! The super-soft fabric means that this is very cozy and in heavy rotation!

Summary

Pattern Review: Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants.
Fabric: Rayon, bamboo sweatshirt fleece from The Fabric Club. Includes the equivalent of sizes 2T to size 22.
Size: 152
Cost: Pattern: $14 Materials: About $48.
Sewing Level: Easy.
Modifications: I used bands for the cuffs, not ribbing. I made the waistband a little larger because of this.
Results: Great!

Sunshine in the Snow

My latest project was a mistake. I ordered french terry to make a sweatshirt, thinking it was the same fabric I had seen in the store, but I was wrong. Ordering fabric online is hard.

 Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.

Instead of soft and fluffy bamboo, it was structured cotton but with stretch – almost like ponte. It was never going to make a good sweatshirt.

The fabric is great, of course. It just wasn’t the one in my head. lol.

But it was exactly the right colour. And I had been looking for dusty rose ponte de roma for ages at Kid No. 4’s request, with no luck – it’s a bit late in the season and the spring fabrics are all coming out now.

The bow in the front is a big hit.

So I found a new project – the Heidi and Finn Cowl Neck Jumper Dress and Sweater. I have sewn this dress many times before, but in smaller sizes – three times in ponte for a structured look, and three times in ITY (interlock twist yarn) for really soft stretchy tops.

The size is just right – there is a little room to grow.

The cotton french terry worked out really well for the dress. It gives enough shape that the neckline looks good, but the cotton will be a bit cooler in spring and summer. I went with short sleeves because of the fabric.

I finished the hem with a double needle.

This time I made the dress in a size 12. The sizing is really close to a retail size 12. It fits really well, with just a little room to grow.

I don’t have a serger – I used the jersey stitch on my regular machine, and a double needle for the hem.

And yes, that means it’s my last kid in the largest size that this pattern offers. I’m a bit sad that it will need to be retired soon.

I made the short sleeved version since I think the fabric is more suited for spring more than winter.

Summary

Pattern Review: Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.
Fabric: French terry (95% cotton, 5% spandex).

Size: 12.
Cost: Pattern: 0$. Fabric: About $30.
Sewing Level: Confident beginner.
Modifications: None
Results: Great, as always. This is a reliable pattern and quick to sew.

Disclaimer: The pattern was generously provided by Heidi & Finn several years ago, in return for testing the pattern. As always, my opinions are my own.

Cozy in Flannel

When you haven’t been sewing for a while, it’s nice to start off with a nice easy project. Flannel pyjamas definitely fit the bill – or so I thought!

A photo of an Ottobre magazine pattern sheet.

The first challenge was finding a pattern. My youngest are tweens now and finding a pattern in that size range is tough. Most Big 4 patterns stop at size 12, and tend to be a little “young”, while women’s patterns often start too large, the fit is off for tweens, and the look can be a bit “old”. Ottobre Magazine to the rescue!

The Zen pyjama set from Ottobre Magazine.

The two great things about Ottobre magazine are 1) the size range (50-170) which covers tiny infants to about age 14-15, and 2) the styling. The styles are age appropriate and fun, but cool enough that my kids will actually wear the clothes.

Of course, you need to trace out each pattern piece from the cryptic pattern sheets onto tracing paper. You might want a cup of coffee before getting started!

Ottobre patterns come on double-sided sheets of paper – each about 60 cm by 100 cm. This issue comes with three of these. They include all the pattern pieces for all the garments in the issue, in multiple sizes. You trace out only the pieces you need.

The cut of the garments is always great, and the instructions are good, if brief. There are some tutorials online for plaquettes, cuffs, etc.

Once you get the hang of it though, it’s worth the effort! It’s also a good value, since you get 40 patterns in this issue. And even if one is a rectangular scarf, the others more than make it worthwhile. More recent editions have about 25 patterns.

OTTOBRE design® kids WINTER 6/2011 which includes sizes 50-170 (EUR pattern sizing system). This issue includes a section on sleepwear.

So the next challenge was the flannel. I love sewing with flannel. The fabric sticks to itself, in the best way, making it unnecessary to pin much.

Of course, my kids suggested solids, but it seemed so boring.

Two types of flannel and some bamboo jersey.

Me: “Don’t you want a colour, or something fun?”
Also me, but later: “Wait, this is a window pane and a wobbly stripe! &^%@#!”

Anyway, I got a perfect pattern match on the window panes and a close-to-perfect match on the stripe.

Window panes have been defeated!

Cats have been conquered!

I made a couple of modifications. I lengthened the boxer short to a pant, and I added a really wide hem at the bottom – maybe 5 cm/2″. I really like this look, but it also lets me lengthen the pants when the kids grow.

It’s tough to see, but these pants have a super wide hem.

I remember how amazed I was when I learned that most men’s pyjamas come with pockets, so I was determined to add some. I just copied the pocket from Vogue V8964, which I’ve made previously and trimmed it down a little.

And I added ribbon to the back of the waistband so you can tell which way they go.

A ribbon in the waistband for sleepy pj wearers.

For the top though, they wanted bamboo jersey. This fabric has an incredibly soft hand – amazing to sleep in. But of course, it’s slinky.

I finished the neckline with fabric bands, and used a double needle to hem the sleeves and bottom.

This pattern also had some modifications. I made a short, cap sleeve. I also lowered the neckline by about 2.5 cm/1″. I found the neck was really high, and not great for pyjamas with this slinky fabric.

It’s a really good fit.

I have to say the sizing from Ottobre was perfect! And my kids love these pyjamas and insisted on wearing them immediately. I had to wait until clean laundry day to fish them out to photograph them.

Summary

Pattern: Zen t-shirt/pajama top (38) and Green check boxer shorts (37) from OTTOBRE design® kids WINTER 6/2011 which includes sizes 50-170 (EUR pattern sizing system). This issue includes a section on sleepwear.

Fabric: Ivory bamboo jersey, and two types of cotton flannel from Fabricville. The cat pattern was one of their in-house prints.

Size: 158 (about a kids’ 14).

Cost: Magazine $13.50. Fabric: About $70 ($35 per pair)

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: Top: Lower neckline, shorten sleeve. Bottom: lengthened pyjama pant, removed the fly, wide cuffs, added pockets.

Results: Great. Great fit and very comfortable, I hear.

Lazy Days Skirt

One of the easiest patterns I know of, that is perfect for beginners, is the Oliver +S Lazy Days skirt.

It’s a free pattern with no seam finishing – which is my least favourite sewing task.

Lady Days Skirt sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
The easiest pattern I’ve ever sewn: the Lazy Days Skirt by Oliver + S.

I don’t have many construction photos of this skirt because I made this years ago. This is actually the third kid to wear this skirt. Yay, for hand-me-downs!

Lady Days Skirt sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
Third time is a charm.

Summary

Pattern: Lazy Days Skirt by Oliver + S.

Fabric: Quilting cotton.

Size: One size.

Cost: Pattern: $0 Fabric: About $10.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: none.

Results: Great. Makes a fast, easy skirt.

Up In The Sky – Kitschy Coo Skater Dress

Sometimes it’s fun to make something quick, easy, and adorable and the Little Girl Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo checks all those boxes.

Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment
This is the size 7/8 in a watermelon colour theme.

This is the second time I’ve used this pattern. Last time I did this in a winter dress with long sleeves and using french terry. This time I used cotton jersey and made the sleeveless version.

Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment
This is the size 5/6 in red and turquoise.

The fabric is from l’Oiseau Fabrics. I used their jersey for the dresses and ribbing for trim. All are really high quality and perfectly suited for the pattern.

Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment
This is the size 3/4 in turquoise and purple.

The pattern combines two sizes in one, and this works great for my kids, since they can wear the dress for a long time. I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Various cotton spandex jersey prints in a sky theme.

This project is part of the Kids Clothes Week sew along, the Monthly Stitch August challenge: Triple Trouble, and the Stashbusting Sewalong.

Summary

Pattern: Little Girl’s Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo available in sizes 18m-8y. I chose the sleeveless view. There are also short sleeve and long sleeve versions.

Fabric: Starlight Jersey Knit in red and turquoise. Cloudy jersey knit in pink. Stretch ribbing in Aqua, purple and lime. All 95% cotton, 5% spandex. All from l’Oiseau Fabrics.

Size: 3/4, 5/6, 7/8.

Cost: Pattern: £7.20 Fabric: About $24/dress.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: none.

Results: Great. Makes a cute, comfortable dress the kids love.

Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment
Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment

A Quick Summer Dress

It’s been a really, really busy summer. I haven’t had much time to sew and even less to blog. And yet, I still managed to have a blogging backlog.

This is the Sugar n’ Spice Romper and Dress by Heidi & Finn, which I made earlier this summer. I wanted a nice quick project that would get my daughter something fun and comfortable to wear in hot weather, and this definitely fit the bill.

Sugar n' Spice Romper and Dress sewing pattern as sewn by The Finished Garment
I really like the length of the dress.

I used ITY (Interlock twist yarn), a synthetic knit for the dress. The bright print was something I had left over for a dress for myself, and the pink was a remnant that just happened to match perfectly. Both are from one of the local chain stores.

Sugar n' Spice Romper and Dress sewing pattern as sewn by The Finished Garment
The colours worked out really well. The pink was a remnant.

The pattern was really quick and easy to sew. My only complaint has to do with the fabric I chose. The ITY doesn’t have a lot of structure, so in the bodice it tends to curl a little. Next time, I’d use a fabric with a bit more structure (even cotton jersey) for the bodice, or make a bit more effort to make the outer layer of the crossover bodice a bit more snug.

Sugar n' Spice Romper and Dress sewing pattern as sewn by The Finished Garment
The cross-over bodice could be a little more snug.

The dress has been a big hit and gets lots of wear.  So I will count this one as a belatedly blogged success.

Summary

Pattern: Sugar n’ Spice Romper and Dress by Heidi & Finn available in sizes 12m-12y.
Fabric:  ITY.
Size: 7.
Cost: Pattern: $11. Fabric: About $10.
Sewing Level: Beginner.
Modifications: none.
Results: Good, but next time I will make the outer layer of the crossover bodice a bit more snug, or use fabric with a bit more structure.

Tiny Assassins

A couple of years ago I made bat costumes for my kids for Halloween. The kids loved them and wanted to wear them all the time, but they were maybe a little costume-y for regular wear.

So this year, I used the same pattern, the Red Riding Hood from the book Oliver + S Little Things to Sew, to make capes the kids could wear this fall.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
The small was lined in a purple and red floral print.

I made the capes in three sizes: small, medium and large. The pattern only comes in medium and large so I had to draft my own small.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
The medium cape was lined with this fun turquoise print.

I didn’t make any changes to the pattern, and even hand finished the arm openings for a nicer finish.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
The large size was lined with the very last of this pale purple print.

I used some wool suiting that I bought out of season ages ago and chose a different quilting cotton to line each one. These were also from my stash. I think my total stash busting for these was about 8 meters (about 9 yards). Even the buttons were lonely singles from my button jar.

Black Button
Even the buttons came from my stash.

Grey Button
I think this button had no siblings, so a perfect project for it.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
I love the large hoods in this pattern.

The kids love the capes, especially the big hoods, and they are really well suited for easily fall and late spring. My husband likes them too, though he thinks they look like little assassins from the video game Assassin’s Creed. So maybe they are still a little costume-y after all.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
The lining is especially pretty in the hood.

This post is part of the Stashbusting Sewalong.

Summary

Pattern Review: Red Riding Hood from the book Oliver + S Little Things to Sew.

Fabric:

  • Grey wool suiting
  • FloraDots in Violet from the La Dee Da collection by Erin McMorries for Free Spirit Fabrics.
  • Happier Bugs in Blue from the Happier collection by Deena Rutter’s  for Riley Blake Designs.
  • Pick A Bunch Organic Blooms in Orchid by Nancy Mim’s from Robert Kaufman.

Sizes: S, M and L.

Sewing Level: beginner.

Modifications: None.

Results: Excellent! I’ve made these several times before. I would highly recommend this pattern.

Red Riding cape from the book Little Things to Sew, as sewn by The Finished Garment.
The capes are great for cool, but not cold weather.

My husband thinks the kids look like junior characters from Assassin's Creed.
My husband thinks the kids look like junior characters from Assassin’s Creed.

Note: This post contains affiliate links.

One Last Hurrah for Winter

Spring has finally spring here in Montreal, so I thought I’d share my last winter sewing project before it’s embarrassingly late.

Here in Quebec, it isn’t unusual to see temperatures around -30°C (-22°F) in the winter, and then +30°C (86°F) in the summer. It takes two different wardrobes. So each year I box up all the kids’ winter clothes and bring out all the summer clothes and take an inventory. It seems that over the winter my kids have all gone up at least one size, and one thing everyone was missing was pyjamas.

Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
One last pair of PJs before spring.

Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
This fabric has been in my stash for ages. I’m really glad to get all that space back. Flannel takes up a lot of room.

Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
I sewed little tags in the back to they know how to put them on.

Once again I used the Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, for the bottoms, and store-bought t-shirts for the tops. I used flannel for the bottoms, which may sound a bit crazy if you live somewhere warmer. But here, it’s likely be chilly at night right into May. I finished these in March, and they’ve gotten tons of wear. This fabric was chosen by the kids and has sat for ages in my stash, so it was time.

Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
They are getting so big!

I’m not sure how many times I’ve used this pattern anymore, but it’s a lot. So I was sooooo sad to see that it only goes up to size 8. I’m sewing size 7 now, so it looks like I’ll have to branch out pretty soon.

Hope you’re enjoying the change of seasons.

Bedtime Story Pajamas sewing pattern by Oliver + S, as sewn by The Finished Garment
They’ve almost outgrown this pattern.

Summary

Pattern Review: Bedtime Story Pajamas by Oliver + S.

Fabric: Flannel Star Wars Angry Birds Flannel in Blue from Camelot Fabrics.

Sizes: 3, 5, 7 and 7.

Sewing Level: beginner, intermediate if not just the pants.

Modifications: None.

Results: Excellent! I’ve made these many times before. I would highly recommend this pattern.

Just to be clear: Angry Birds and Star Wars names and images are licensed to Camelot Cottons by Lucasfilm Ltd. and Rovio Entertainment Ltd. The pjs shown here are not official licensed products and are not available for sale. But you can always buy some fabric and make your own!