Dress – The Finished Garment

Sunshine in the Snow

My latest project was a mistake. I ordered french terry to make a sweatshirt, thinking it was the same fabric I had seen in the store, but I was wrong. Ordering fabric online is hard.

Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.

Instead of soft and fluffy bamboo, it was structured cotton but with stretch – almost like ponte. It was never going to make a good sweatshirt.

The fabric is great, of course. It just wasn’t the one in my head. lol.

But it was exactly the right colour. And I had been looking for dusty rose ponte de roma for ages at Kid No. 4’s request, with no luck – it’s a bit late in the season and the spring fabrics are all coming out now.

So I found a new project – the Heidi and Finn Cowl Neck Jumper Dress and Sweater. I have sewn this dress many times before, but in smaller sizes – three times in ponte for a structured look, and three times in ITY (interlock twist yarn) for really soft stretchy tops.

The size is just right – there is a little room to grow.

The cotton french terry worked out really well for the dress. It gives enough shape that the neckline looks good, but the cotton will be a bit cooler in spring and summer. I went with short sleeves because of the fabric.

I finished the hem with a double needle.

This time I made the dress in a size 12. The sizing is really close to a retail size 12. It fits really well, with just a little room to grow.

I don’t have a serger – I used the jersey stitch on my regular machine, and a double needle for the hem.

And yes, that means it’s my last kid in the largest size that this pattern offers. I’m a bit sad that it will need to be retired soon.

I made the short sleeved version since I think the fabric is more suited for spring more than winter.

Summary

Pattern Review: Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.
Fabric: French terry (95% cotton, 5% spandex).

Size: 12.
Cost: Pattern: 0$. Fabric: About $30.
Sewing Level: Confident beginner.
Modifications: None
Results: Great, as always. This is a reliable pattern and quick to sew.

Disclaimer: The pattern was generously provided by Heidi & Finn several years ago, in return for testing the pattern. As always, my opinions are my own.

Goth Skater Dress

So something looks a little different! Last summer I chopped off all my hair, went platinum (yes, blondes do have more fun!) and lost over 30 pounds (more on that in another post).

This dress was the first thing I made in my new size. It is the Lady Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo.

Gothic Skater dress sewn by The Finished Garment — Such a fun dress.

The thing about losing that much weight, is that nothing at all fits anymore. I went from a decent me-made wardrobe to nothing. But the thing about that is that you get to start over. I was feeling kind of stuck in a wardrobe that didn’t really fit me, both literally and figuratively. I didn’t really want to dress like a mum anymore, and I don’t have the kind of job that requires the corporate wardrobe stuffed in the back of my closet which suddenly fit again.

So when I made this dress I decided to choose something way more fun than I normally buy. Roses and skulls. I feel a bit more badass than normal, so I figure I’m doing it right.

This pattern is perfect. It is super easy to make and the fit is great! The only problem I ran into was of course the infamous Awkward Skull Placement™. There was a 1/2 inch of skull on the bodice front that I thought would be fine but then I decided it would irritate me constantly. I had to shorten the bodice by just a sliver. If I hadn’t, the length of the bodice would be perfect, but what’s a girl to do!

Summary

Pattern: Lady Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo available in sizes 1-8 (using their own pattern sizing system). I chose the short-sleeved view. There is also a long sleeve version.

Fabric: Red Goth digital jersey: 92% cotton, 8% spandex, and 200 g/m2 with black tubular ribbing. From l’Oiseau Fabrics.

Size: 5 (or was it the 6?).

Cost: Pattern: £7.20 Fabric: About $30.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: none.

Results: Great. Great fit and very comfortable.

Up In The Sky – Kitschy Coo Skater Dress

Sometimes it’s fun to make something quick, easy, and adorable and the Little Girl Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo checks all those boxes.

Little Girl Skater Dress sewing pattern by Kitschy Coo, as sewn by The Finished Garment — This is the size 7/8 in a watermelon colour theme.

This is the second time I’ve used this pattern. Last time I did this in a winter dress with long sleeves and using french terry. This time I used cotton jersey and made the sleeveless version.

The fabric is from l’Oiseau Fabrics. I used their jersey for the dresses and ribbing for trim. All are really high quality and perfectly suited for the pattern.

The pattern combines two sizes in one, and this works great for my kids, since they can wear the dress for a long time. I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Various cotton spandex jersey prints in a sky theme.

This project is part of the Kids Clothes Week sew along, the Monthly Stitch August challenge: Triple Trouble, and the Stashbusting Sewalong.

Summary

Pattern: Little Girl’s Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo available in sizes 18m-8y. I chose the sleeveless view. There are also short sleeve and long sleeve versions.

Fabric: Starlight Jersey Knit in red and turquoise. Cloudy jersey knit in pink. Stretch ribbing in Aqua, purple and lime. All 95% cotton, 5% spandex. All from l’Oiseau Fabrics.

Size: 3/4, 5/6, 7/8.

Cost: Pattern: £7.20 Fabric: About $24/dress.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: none.

Results: Great. Makes a cute, comfortable dress the kids love.

A Quick Summer Dress

It’s been a really, really busy summer. I haven’t had much time to sew and even less to blog. And yet, I still managed to have a blogging backlog.

This is the Sugar n’ Spice Romper and Dress by Heidi & Finn, which I made earlier this summer. I wanted a nice quick project that would get my daughter something fun and comfortable to wear in hot weather, and this definitely fit the bill.

Sugar n' Spice Romper and Dress sewing pattern as sewn by The Finished Garment — I really like the length of the dress.

I used ITY (Interlock twist yarn), a synthetic knit for the dress. The bright print was something I had left over for a dress for myself, and the pink was a remnant that just happened to match perfectly. Both are from one of the local chain stores.

The pattern was really quick and easy to sew. My only complaint has to do with the fabric I chose. The ITY doesn’t have a lot of structure, so in the bodice it tends to curl a little. Next time, I’d use a fabric with a bit more structure (even cotton jersey) for the bodice, or make a bit more effort to make the outer layer of the crossover bodice a bit more snug.

The dress has been a big hit and gets lots of wear. So I will count this one as a belatedly blogged success.

Summary

Pattern: Sugar n’ Spice Romper and Dress by Heidi & Finn available in sizes 12m-12y.
Fabric: ITY.
Size: 7.
Cost: Pattern: $11. Fabric: About $10.
Sewing Level: Beginner.
Modifications: none.
Results: Good, but next time I will make the outer layer of the crossover bodice a bit more snug, or use fabric with a bit more structure.

Turquoise Skater Dresses

In the after-holiday sales I picked up some really bright turquoise French terry. It was only 5$ per metre so I let each kid choose there own piece of clothing. Two chose mini-hudson pants, and two chose the Little Girls’ Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment. — This is the size 5/6.

I had been looking at the Skater Dress pattern for a while, but didn’t really have the right fabric. Ideally this would be made in jersey, but I thought the French terry be a little cozier. The dress ends up being great for our current cold weather, but still fun to wear and very comfortable. This French terry has a lot of stretch, which makes the dress very wearable, especially for kids. It’s like your favourite sweatshirt, but it’s a dress.

Unfortunately, it’s been too cold for outdoor photo sessions and the light hasn’t been great lately generally, so you’ll have to settle for less than ideal photos this time around.

I let the kids choose the colour of the contrast cuffs from my scrap bin. The cuffs are so bright, but they do really make the dress. With solid colours for the main part of the dress, they might be a bit plain, without that crazy pop of colour.

The pattern is sized to fit over two years. They fit a bit large. My kids are both at the lower ends of their ranges, but definitely too big to go down a size. I double checked the measurements, and tried the size 5/6 on my normally size 7 kid to check. Next time I might take the dress in a little through the bodice for my skinny girls, especially if I use a heavier fabric again. In jersey, it would probably be fine.

This pattern is a really quick sew. I finished both dresses in an afternoon. The instructions were great and everything came together without any problems. I also have the women’s version of the skater dress, so I’m pretty excited to get to that soon.

Project Summary

Pattern Review: Little Girls’ Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo, available in sizes 18m-8Y (in 4 different sizes).
Fabric: French terry, with jersey cuffs.
Sizes: 5/6 and 7/8.
Cost: Pattern: About 14$. Fabric: $5 per dress.
Project Sewing Level: Beginner.
Modifications: none.
Results: Great. The kids love wearing these.

Red Squirrel Dress (Simplicity 2063)

I made the same dress, Simplicity 2063 from the Little Lisette collection by Liesl Gibson, twice over the holidays.

Simplicity 2063 Little Lisette Dress as sewn by The Finished Garment — This dress is finished with bias tape at the arms.

This time I made the size 5, but otherwise, it’s pretty much the same dress as I made previously. Same super soft corduroy, same colourful piping, this time in red and grey.

It’s a nice simple pattern that makes a really cute dress. This one was so popular that no one would sit still for a photo shoot.

Summary

Pattern Review: Simplicity 2063 from the Little Lisette collection by Liesl Gibson, available in sizes 3-8, and now out of print.
Fabric:

Corduroy, in Grey Squirrel by Stenzo.
Kona solid for the flat piping.

Size: 5.
Cost: Pattern: $0 (used once already). Fabric: About $18.
Sewing Level: Adventurous beginner.
Modifications: None.
Results: Really cute and very soft.

A Blue Gnome Dress (Simplicity 2063)

I think I’ve had this pattern (Simplicity 2063 from the Little Lisette collection by Liesl Gibson) in my stash for ages, but I was looking for just the right fabric.

Then I found this cute corduroy online. It’s super soft. The fabric is light-weight but it feels almost like velour. Perfect for little ones.

The pattern is quite simple. It’s an a-line, panel dress with flat piping to set off the panels. It wasn’t difficult. The instructions were good. The bodice is finished with bias tape at the arms, but I think I might prefer a lined bodice next time.

I didn’t make any changes to the pattern. I just followed the pattern instructions.

My youngest is growing so fast that it’s hard to keep up. I made the smallest size, size 3, and hoped it wouldn’t be too big, but it seems just right. Good thing I didn’t try to grade it down a size.

There always seem to be so many events to attend over the holidays, so a new dress is always handy for the kids, especially when it is as cute and comfortable as this one.

Summary

Pattern Review: Simplicity 2063 from the Little Lisette collection by Liesl Gibson, available in sizes 3-8, and now out of print.
Fabric:

Corduroy, in blue.
Kona solid for the flat piping.

Size: 3.
Cost: Pattern: $1. Fabric: About $18.
Sewing Level: Adventurous beginner.
Modifications: None.
Results: Really cute and very soft.

Pattern Testing the Heidi & Finn Cowl Neck Dress

Have you seen the Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn? It is super cute, and oh so trendy.

So I was very excited to be a pattern tester for the newest version of the pattern, which now includes a sweater, a short-sleeved version, and an expanded size range from 12m to 12Y.

Heidi & Finn Cowl Neck Sweater, sewn by The Finished Garment — The kids really like the tops and they are very comfortable.

And is it ever easy to sew! I finished about one project per nap. I love one-nap projects!

In the end, I made this pattern six times: three tops and three dresses, in three different sizes.

This project calls for knit fabric, and obviously a sweater knit would be ideal, but sadly the choices were limited at my local fabric shops and I had no time to order online.

The smallest kids chose the fabric for the tops (ack! so cute to watch them choose fabrics) – a slinky rayon jersey. In that fabric, the tops have a retro 70s vibe.

The pattern changed slightly during testing, and now has a banded waist, but these tops were made before the change.

For the dresses, I chose a ponte de roma that has a bit of a soft, sweater-knit texture. This fabric gave better results than the jersey. It’s a stable knit that is still very stretchy and has great recovery.

Heidi & Finn Cowl Neck Dress,, sewn by The Finished Garment — This is my favourite fabric for this pattern. It’s a ponte de roma, and has just the right amount of structure, without being stiff.

I only made two changes. First, I shortened the sleeves by 1-2″, depending on the fabric and dress size. Second, I attached the cowl neck first, before starting the sleeves. I find it easier to work this way, but it’s just my preference. See a discussion on sewing flat versus in the round, here.

I didn’t use a serger – I don’t have one. I just used my regular machine, which has a faux overlock stitch and I hemmed everything using a double needle. This worked very well.

The results were great. These tops and dresses are cute, cute, cute and the kids love wearing them. Yay!

Summary

Pattern Review: Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.
Fabric: Rayon jersey for the tops and ponte de roma for the dresses.

Dakota stretch rayon jersey knit Hearts in navy, pink and teal (medium-weight knit, 95% Rayon/5% Lycra, 4-way stretch, 25% vertical stretch and 50% stretch across the grain).
Ponte de roma in grey, (medium- to heavy-weight knit, 80% Polyester/15% Rayon/5% Lycra, 30% stretch across the grain), magenta, and dark teal – not shown – (medium-weight knit, 50% Polyester/45% Rayon/5% Lycra).

Sizes: 2T, 5T and 7Y.
Cost: Pattern: 0$. Fabric: About $12 per top and about $16 per dress.
Sewing Level: Confident beginner.
Modifications: I shortened the sleeves, by 1-2″, depending on the fabric and dress size.
Results: Great. This was fast, and I love the trendy look.

Disclaimer: The pattern was generously provided by Heidi & Finn, in return for testing the pattern. As always, my opinions are my own.

Girls in White Dresses Part II

A little while ago I showed you a white dress I made for Kid No 2. But of course Kids 1 and 3 also needed new dresses for summer.

Geranium Dress sewing pattern from Made by Rae, as sewn by The Finished Garment. — A perfect dress for summer.

In total I made three Geranium Dresses. I made them all assembly-line-style, so they are all the same, except for the fabric choices. It’s just so much faster that way!

I made one dress in size 2, and the other in size 7, and both were made with fabric from my stash.

The butterfly fabric was left over from some tops I made last summer. And the lilac has been in my stash for an embarrassing long time. So it’s great to get them turned into something wearable.

Since I’ve already sewn this pattern twice before, there’s not much to add. But it’s a great pattern, and I’m very happy with the finished dresses.

The fabric is Sunset from the Fly Away collection by Amy Schindler for Robert Kaufman.

Summary

Pattern Review: Geranium Dress from Made by Rae.

Fabric: Sunset from the Fly Away collection by Amy Schindler for Robert Kaufman. FloraDots in Violet from the La Dee Da collection by Erin McMorries for Free Spirit Fabrics. The lining is white cotton batiste. The piping is made with Kona solids.

Sizes: 2 and 7. (Comes in sizes 0-5 or 6-12.)

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: I added piping.

Results: Great. This is the third and fourth time I’ve used this pattern and I would definitely recommend it.

Girls in White Dresses

Nothing says summer like girls in white dresses.

So for the last day of school, and beginning of summer, everyone got a new white dress. Well, except Kid No 2, but he’s more of a summer shorts fan anyway.

This is the first of three dresses, and it’s made with the cutest print. Who doesn’t love ladybugs?

This is one of my favourite patterns – the Geranium Dress from Made by Rae. This is the second time I’ve used this pattern, this time in size 5.

The Geranium dress from Made by Rae, as sewn by The Finished Garment, A Warp & Weft Sewing Society project. — I made the faux cap sleeves from view B of the Geranium dress.

This time around, I made the dress with the view B faux cap sleeves, but with a gathered skirt. I made two changes. I added red piping at the waist, and I added in-seam pockets.

This dress was made for Kid No 3, and is a huge hit. She loves ladybugs and the colour red, and recently asked me why she doesn’t have “a dress that twirls”. The pockets are hidden in the gathers of the skirt, and she loves the “secret pockets” too.

This was a lot of fun to sew. The pattern makes a really pretty dress that’s lined and nicely finished on the inside. But the sewing was quick and problem-free.

Warp & Weft Sewing Society

This is a Warp & Weft Sewing Society project. We are a group of talented sewists and quilters creating beautiful projects inspired by the fabrics from Warp & Weft Exquisite Textiles.

Summary

Pattern Review: Geranium Dress from Made by Rae.

Fabric: Ladybug Dots from The Red Thread collection by Creative Thursdays for Andover Fabrics. Courtesy Warp & Weft Exquisite Textiles. The lining is white cotton batiste.

Size: 5. (Comes in sizes 0-5 or 6-12.)

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: None.

Results: Great. This is the second time I’ve used this pattern and I would definitely recommend it.