Sometimes it’s good to sew something cozy that you know you’ll wear all the time. Yesterday’s project was a waffle shirt using Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude.
This is one of my favourite patterns, and I’ve sewn it many times. It works well in many knits. My favourite is the never-blogged half of a bamboo jersey pyjama set that packs small for travel.
For this version, I didn’t make any changes. I used the regular cuff. There is also a cuff with a thumbhole, but I’m not a fan of the design because the inside ends up unfinished – unlike the standard cuff.
This pattern comes in 27 sizes, from 2T (toddler) to 22 (Women’s), and all are included, making this a steal. The digital version also comes with copy shop files and projector files, but I used the paper version.
The drafting is excellent, and the instructions are clear. Jalie lets you download all their instructions before purchase, so you know exactly what you are signing up for.
This was a super quick sew – there are only seven pattern pieces. I finished the entire thing in an evening. As usual, I used my regular sewing machine, a Pfaff with IDT, rather than a serger.
I purchased my fabric from Black Rabbit Fabrics when they were closing out the last of their knit inventory. This was also a discontinued colour. I paid $15, and I think I might be able to squeeze some pyjama shorts out of the leftover fabric.
This is a cotton waffle knit, but it has some spandex, so the recovery is great. I’d use it again. The colour is peach heather, and this colour is impossible to photograph! But I really like the creamy peach colour.
I am really happy with the results, and I expect this will be in regular rotation, maybe even tomorrow!
Summary
Pattern Review:Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude Raglan Pullovers, available in sizes 2T (toddler) to 22 (women’s). View A. I made size AA. Fabric: Cotton waffle knit by Kendor in heather peach (now discontinued) from Black Rabbit Fabrics. Cuffs are in a baby rib in the same colourway. Fibre content: 95% Cotton 5% Spandex. Notions and Equipment: none.
Size: AA. Cost: Pattern: $14.98 (though I’ve made this many times). Fabric: $15. Hardware: $0. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: None. Results: Cuddly!
Who doesn’t want a new red flannel jacket? I have been coveting a plaid overshirt for ages, and this one is pretty close to my dream jacket.
The Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns in red, windowpane plaid.
I used the Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns. I wanted a chore coat/shacket/overshirt, and I chose this pattern because it has a lot more shape than other patterns. I didn’t want too boxy a fit. The front of this jacket includes a dart, and the side seams are essentially low-curve princess seams.
I made some changes to the fit. I did an FBA (as usual) and this worked really well. I normally lengthen the sleeves, but the sleeves on this pattern are already a bit long, so this wasn’t necessary.
I made the size 46, which is one size up from my measurements. I was hoping it would be oversized, but it is a more classic fit. If I made this again, I would go up another size. The arms were a bit tight, so I switched to a 1/4″ seam allowance in the sleeves. If I make this again, I might add just a bit of width. I chose View B, and included the back vent.
I included the back vent.
This pattern is rated Intermediate, but I would say it’s really advanced.
The pockets are designed in a clever way to keep all the seams nicely finished, but the design is finicky and hard to get right. I ripped out the pockets three times trying to get it right and had to put this jacket in the naughty corner for a while, and work on a different project for a while.
The pocket opening, seen from the outside.
When I finally got them in, I found the pockets to be extremely small, barely large enough for my phone and too small for my hands. So I designed my own pockets to replace them.
I made pockets that are much larger – both wider and deeper – and created a separate inside pocket for mittens in the fall by keeping the inside top open.
I didn’t have enough fabric left to use flannel to remake the pockets. Instead, I used chambray, which has the advantage of being thinner. In retrospect, this was a much better choice for the pockets.
If I made this again, I would use the same pocket design and have them extend across the full width of the jacket front. I left off the top chest pocket.
The inside of the jacket, showing the new, larger pocket design that includes an inner pocket for mittens.
I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.
I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.
I used Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. This is a heavier-weight flannel and is well-suited for this type of garment. It was very easy to work with. It also doesn’t shrink like less expensive flannel. I used the “wrong” softer side on the outside, and the slightly nubbly side on the inside.
I got this fabric from Rives et Co. when they closed their business last year. It’s so sad to see indie fabric stores close. 🙁
This is a windowpane plaid, and I’m really proud of the plaid/stripe matching job I did.
This pattern calls for 2.2m of fabric with a width of 140 cm for View B. I used 2.5m of fabric with a width of 112 cm. It was a remnant.
I used black chambray for the elbow patches and inner pockets.
The elbow patches are made from some black chambray I had left over from another project. I used some printed ribbon to make a jacket hanging loop.
I added a jacket hanging loop using printed grossgrain ribbon.
I switched out the buttons the pattern called for with Prym anorak snaps in black. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install them, and I love this tool! Definitely worth the money. They were so easy to use, super fast, and the snaps were very securely installed. Also, so much quieter than a hammer late at night when you just have to add the snaps to finish, but everyone else is sleeping.
Summary
Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Komugi Overshirt, available in sizes EU 32-54. View B. I made size 46. Fabric: Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. Notions and Equipment: Prym anorak snaps in black.
Size: 46. Cost: Pattern: €12.50. Fabric: $31.25. Hardware: About $10 for snaps. Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say advanced. Modifications: FBA. Switched from buttons to snaps, made the pockets larger. Skipped the top chest pocket. Results: Cozy!
This isn’t the first time I’ve sewn with a vintage 1990s pattern and it’s unlikely to be the last. It’s a lot of fun, as long as you are prepared to do a little extra work.
I’ve wanted a jean maxi skirt for a while, but I couldn’t find the right pattern – until I spotted Vogue Elements V9997, circa 1999.
This pattern is for an a-line maxi skirt, with carpenter-style pockets, sewn-on fly with fly shield, and belt carriers. And, it wasn’t too expensive. I bought it online through a vintage pattern seller.
Vogue 9997 cira 1999.
I really like the Vogue Elements series patterns. I have a few of these. There are a lot of 90s looks which have come back into style in the past couple of years, but few current patterns that match. Also, these patterns mostly have good lines and quality construction details. Of course, some are a bit dated, but many are not.
I also like that the size range for the series is 6-22. That’s larger than current Vogue patterns offer, per envelope, and accommodates all the bodies in my household. There aren’t options in larger sizes though, if that’s what you need.
V997 wasn’t without its flaws. But more on that later.
Photographing dark clothing is really difficult!
First, let’s talk about the fabric. I used a dark cotton chambray instead of heavy denim. Maxi skirts made of denim tend to be hot, stiff, heavy, and not always very comfortable. I wanted something lighter that I could wear in the heat of summer. This has a little swish.
I bought the fabric in-store at Fabricville. It’s the same fabric I used previously to make another vintage pattern, McCall’s M2220. This fabric comes in many hues, and I have no idea which one this is. It’s just the darkest they had in the store that day. Some of the photos here make it look quite blue, but it’s really a dark indigo. It’s hard to photograph dark clothing.
Skirt front with topstitching details.
I used Gutermann mara thread in bright brown (#405) for the topstitching, and I really like the look. I did double topstitching everywhere, except for the hem. All the inside seams are faux flat-felled.
Belt carriers.
I used a size 12/80 universal needle (this was shirting after all), except on the waistband where I used a 14/90 jeans needle.
Skirt hem.
I used a metal jeans zipper and jeans button. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install the button, and this is one of my favourite sewing tools ever. It’s just so precise! I probably should have gone with bronze hardware to match the thread, but I had silver on hand.
This was also a bit of a practice run on two fronts. First, I’m hoping to make some jeans soon, and I wanted a bit of low-risk practice with topstitching, making pockets, and a jean-style fly. Second, I have some more precious fabric waiting to be sewn into another maxi skirt, and I wanted to test the pattern (coming soon!). So you could call this a very wearable toile.
The fly is a sewn-on jeans fly with fly shield and double top-stitching.
The fly is a sewn-on jeans fly with fly shield and double top-stitching. I love how this is considered an “easy” pattern by Vogue. (sigh)
I added bar tacks. One is so pretty, and I guess the others I’d qualify as adequate. Don’t look too closely! I’d also recommend not sewing your bar tacks through the hem of your skirt. lolcry.
I am very happy with the results, but in the highly unlikely event that you sew with this hard-to-find vintage pattern, you will need to make three (pretty easy) adjustments.
1. Draft a straight waistband
This pattern is described as having a “below-waist” waistband. By this, they apparently mean about 7cm (3 inches) below the waist. That is very low. Dear reader, it is not actually 1999, and I’ve had four kids.
I dutifully cut out the waistband as drafted, but it did not fit. And yet, the skirt without the waistband fit great. This is a curved waistband, and it is possibly the most curved I’ve ever seen, and I’ve sewn a lot of waistbands in my time. It’s just odd. I doubt it would fit most bodies. In any case, this waistband ended up in the trash.
I wanted a high-waisted version of this skirt anyway, so I drafted a very straight waistband. You can read a tutorial that explains what I did here. But essentially, I measured the top of the skirt, then cut out a waistband a couple inches longer on each end, and then transferred the markings and proceeded as per the instructions. An alternative would be to borrow a waistband from another pattern, but a straight waistband worked well with a high-waist and wasn’t especially difficult. It also doesn’t use a lot of extra fabric. I didn’t adjust the skirt panels in any way.
2. Lower the back pockets
Because this is drafted to be low on the hip, if you place the back pockets where drafted, but raise the waist, the pockets will be very, very high. I recommend making the pockets, and adding them at the last possible moment. This way you can pin them to the skirt and get the most flattering placement for your figure. The a-line design means there is lots of room to do this, even when the skirt is fully assembled, and it isn’t too fiddly a task.
Pretty pockets. I used an empty ice cream bucket to trace the circles. You can still see the chalk lines.
My pockets were so000 pretty, but in the end, I decided not to add them. I tried on the skirt with a couple of tops, and I found that if I wore it with something on the dressier side (say, a turtleneck and blazer), the pockets always landed at an awkward point. Without pockets it looks a bit leaner and there were more wardrobe possibilities. That said, if I had used a fabric that looked less like real jeans, I would have included them. With the dark chambray and all the top-stitching, I thought it I had a pretty good “jeans” vibe as it was.
3. Lengthen the skirt
With most big four skirt patterns, there is a little extra length to adjust for folks of different heights. Of course, if you raise the waist on this pattern, you cut into that wiggle room.
This pattern is drafted to be “above ankle”, but I wanted my skirt to be as long as possible without dragging in the dirt. I didn’t lengthen the skirt, and that’s exactly what I ended up with. However, I’m 166cm (5’6″) tall – the exact height this pattern was drafted for. If you are even a little taller, you’ll want to add a little length, just in case. It’s an a-line skirt though, so it isn’t very difficult.
Do you need to adjust the front pockets? I didn’t, and I like the look as is. If they were longer, and you had anything in them, they would bang against your legs when you walked. The back pockets were the correct size as well, though that depends much more on individual morphology.
I ended up with exactly what I wanted. This is an on-trend skirt that I can dress down for summer in the backyard or dress up for work and wear year-round.
Metal jeans button.
Summary
Pattern Review: Vogue Elements 9997 circa 1999, available in sizes 6-22. Length: Maxi. Fabric: Dark wash indigo chambray from Fabricville. This was labelled denim, but it is shirting. I used about 1.5m, even though I had to cut a new waistband. The pattern calls for 2m. Notions and Equipment: Needle: 12/80 universal for most, jeans 14/90 for topstitching the waistband. Gutermann mara thread in bright brown (#405).
Size: 20. Cost: Pattern: $14. Fabric: About $15. Hardware: About $4. Sewing Level: Easy according to Vogue, but I’d say average. Modifications: Raised the waist, cut a straight waistband, and skipped the pockets. Results: On trend!
Everything that’s old is new again, especially the 90s.
I was recently looking for a sewing pattern for a cargo skirt, but nothing seemed to match what I was looking for. So I checked out the vintage patterns on eBay, and found McCall’s 2220, circa 1999.
It looked perfect, and the pattern includes a maxi skirt, a knee-length skirt, as well as shorts in two-lengths. It’s a good deal.
This pattern has a fly (I used a metal jeans zipper), with a good amount of top-stitching that add a lot of style. The waist closes with a trouser hook.
I used bronze-look hardware throughout, and the topstitching thread is a beige heavy-duty thread (Gütermann Mara 70 topstitching thread) that coordinates.
The pockets are the larger cargo style with velcro or buttons for the closure (lol, so 90s!). I switched them out for heavy-duty snaps.
During the 90s, patterns often came in a more restricted size range. This one was 14-18, and I originally wanted it for myself. But my daughter wanted a skirt and needed a size 12, so I graded the whole pattern down.
The fabric is a dark-wash 8.8 oz denim chambray – quite a bit lighter than standard denim. That made it quite a bit easier to work with.
The inside seams (not shown) are all faux flat-felled.
I’m very happy with the results – the skirt looks modern and polished, and can be dressed up or down.
Summary
Pattern Review: Vintage McCall’s 2220 circa 1999, in size 12. Fabric: Cotton chambray from Fabricville (8.8 oz) Size: 12. Cost: Pattern: $17.50. Fabric: about $10. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: I graded down to size 12, and used snaps for the pockets. I also stitched the waistband close by machine.
I sew a lot of neutrals so I thought it might be nice to do something colourful for a change – the Mave skirt from True Bias in a bright orange, just in time for summer weather.
The fabric is an orange, smocked cotton voile from Our Social Fabric. Our Social Fabric is a Vancouver-based non-profit fabric store selling donated deadstock fabric and fibre arts supplies. Buying deadstock keeps fabric out of landfills, and the price is right. But a couple of other online shops currently have the same fabric in different colourways.
I used a white cotton batiste for the lining. The orange voile is a bit transparent. Batiste makes a great lining because it is so breathable. It’s great for hot weather clothing. But in this skirt, it also makes the orange colour really pop.
I went with the midi length for the Mave skirt. The pattern has a large number of variations. I would have preferred a maxi skirt, but there wasn’t quite enough fabric for that, especially since I needed to match the stripes.
I made a size 18 based on my waist measurements (as directed in the instructions) but I could probably go down a size.
The pattern is great. I didn’t make any changes. I’ve actually used this pattern three times now, but I have a bit of a blogging backlog, so this is the first one I posted. More to come!
I’m really happy with the results. This skirt is a lot of fun.
Summary
Pattern Review:True Bias Mave skirt, in size 18. Fabric: Striped smocked cotton voile, in orange from Our Social Fabric. Size: True Bias uses their own sizing system, but this is about a size 18 in ready-to-wear sizing. Cost: Pattern: $16 USD. Fabric: $18.80. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: None.
Apparently, lime green is on trend, and so are the 90s – though maybe not this part of the 90s. Lol. Hopefully this reads a bit more Colors of Benetton and a bit less Fresh Prince of Bel Air. Either way, it’s lots of fun.
I have a couple more lime green pieces in the sewing queue, so hopefully I can get some full outfit photos soon.
The fabric is a cotton french terry from l’Oiseau Fabrics that I bought ages ago. The lime green cotton ribbing is leftover from some t-shirts I made when my kids were really little.
This pattern is Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. Jalie uses their own sizing system, and this is size AA. This is this is the equivalent of a size 14 in ready-to-wear.
The pattern instructions say to “use the size corresponding to full bust measurement for the sweatshirt”. Haha! No. Don’t do this. I mean, I know I’m a D-cup, but this is a knit!
I did try this first, but the sweatshirt was huge and very unflattering. It would be “ok”, if you had a drapey fabric and were looking for an oversize look. And yes, this is on trend right now! But for this project, I wanted something a bit more “standard” in terms of sizing. And the fabric I used is a more structured cotton terry.
So I recut in the size that matched what I usually buy in a ready-to-wear sweatshirt (two sizes below what the pattern maker recommends), and that was indeed the right size.
I made a couple of changes. The neck band looked a little wide in lime green, so I made it a bit more narrow. I think it would look great as is, if I had chosen monochromatic ribbing though.
I added a little tag to the back so you can tell which way the shirt goes.
I also removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length. I didn’t want this to look cropped, but I also didn’t want it too long. This fabric is a bit structured, so it doesn’t pool nicely at the waist. But in another project, depending on the look you want and fabric you choose, the length might work. With the reduced length, the waistband just covers the waistband of my jeans.
If I make this again, I might make the body narrow a bit more towards the waist, instead of the more rectangular default cut. I have a store-bought sweatshirt like that and I find it’s flattering on my figure. But it will depend on the project.
The instructions were great. Again, I love having the instructions as a PDF download. I usually sew with my tablet nearby, and this is very convenient.
Summary
Pattern Review:Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. View B. Fabric: Cotton french terry from l’Oiseau Fabrics and cotton ribbing from my stash. Size: Available in sizes size 2T (toddler) to about size 22. This is size AA, the equivalent of a 14. Cost: Pattern: About $14. Fabric: I can’t remember! Sewing Level: Beginner Modifications: I reduced the with of the ribbing at the neck, and removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length. Results: Fun!
Not every sewing project works out the way it is supposed to.
But let’s start with what went right. This fabric is a cotton baby rib knit, in grey, from Our Social Fabric. It might be the softest cotton rib knit I’ve ever used. And it’s on the thinner, drapey-er side. It’s so nice that I ordered more.
The project requested by Kid No. 3 was a simple knit dress. So I bought McCall’s Learn-to-Sew M8064. It’s described as a pullover dress, fitted through bust, with neckline, sleeve and hem variations. I made View C (long sleeves, crew neckline, knee length).
This is a very simple pattern with just 5 pieces (in View C).
This dress comes in sizes XS (4-6) to XXL (24-26). My daughter is a size 10-12, but I opted for the size Small (8-10).
This dress fits very large. If you make this dress, you will need to size down a lot.
I’ve been sewing for a long time, and have made a lot of items in knits. This pattern had an odd fit for a knit.
In a close-fitting dress, in a knit, there should be negative ease. If you look at other popular patterns, the ease in the bust is negative, or zero.
True Bias Nikko Top And Dress 8101: -1.5″
McCalls 6886/8058: 0″
McCall’s 7561: 0″
If you look at reviews for McCalls 6886, 8058, 7561, people are often going down a size, to get that negative ease.
If you look at this pattern, there is +1.5″ of ease in the bust. That means that going down just one size might not be enough.
I would recommend choosing the size based on whatever would give you about an inch of negative ease in the bust.
I ended up recutting the entire pattern, after having sewn it. What I finished with was smaller than the XS. I had to grade smaller, beyond the sizes listed.
I still had issues with the fit though. The neckline was very wide – more of a bateau neckline, and I had wanted a crew neckline. The shoulders were set very wide apart and extra low.
I wonder if maybe the pattern makers used a pattern block for wovens and did not test?
The pattern also used a 5/8″ seam allowance – which is odd for a knit (but typical for Big Four knit patterns). I had already trimmed down the seam allowances on my pieces before I started, but it was still very large.
I added cuffs to the sleeves and removed a bit of length. My daughter is a bit shorter than average.
In the end, after recutting, the dress is cute and does get worn, so I’ll chalk this up as a success. But I’m not likely to use the pattern again. It’s a bit disappointing, because this pattern had a lot of potential – cute design, multiple views that all look wearable, good instructions, quick to assemble.
Summary
Pattern Review: McCall’s Learn-to-Sew 8064. View C. Fabric: Cotton Baby Rib Knit, Grey, from Our Social Fabric. Size: S (8-10). Cost: Pattern: About $15. Fabric: $18.80. Sewing Level: Beginner Modifications: I added cuffs, and recut the whole dress. Results: Ok.
Why do something simple, when you can do something complicated?
I haven’t sewn much in a while, so this spring, when I got out my sewing machine, I decided to sew something just a bit more challenging – a classic white shirt.
The pattern is Liesl + Co.’s classic shirt. It’s fantastic!
The designer behind Liesl + Co. is the same as the one behind oliver + s. Her patterns are like mini-sewing lessons. Everything is presented in detail and you end up a better sewist by following her instructions.
This pattern includes a two-piece collar, tower sleeve plackets with buttons, and a continuous (cut-on) placket or a separate set-in front placket. There are faux-felled seams, double rows of topstitching, and a rolled collar. There are also tutorials for adding a popover front placket, turning the shirt into a shirt dress, or a tiered dress, and several pocket variations.
The best thing about this pattern: separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes.
I wasn’t sure what size to sew. During the pandemic there was a lot of snacking (sigh). Oh well! So I stuck to the measurement chart and ended up sewing the size 14 with a D-cup.
I wasn’t sure it would fit. The whole time I was sewing this shirt, I kept telling myself “It’s just a wearable muslin!”. “This is just practice!” “It doesn’t matter if it doesn’t fit, you’re learning!” And it takes a long time to make a shirt!
In the end, the fit was excellent. I usually buy shirts with some stretch so I can get them closed. I don’t think I’ve ever had a plain white shirt really fit properly. But this one is good, great even! It’s definitely better than any ready-to-wear shirt I’ve worn.
The fabric is some 100% cotton shirting that I got from Our Social Fabric, for about $14. The pattern calls for 2m, and I thought I would make a short-sleeved version of the shirt, but in the end, I was able to Tetris all the pieces onto 1.5m of fabric.
Our Social Fabric is a non-profit and its goal is to keep fabric out of landfills. They sell deadstock and donated fabric. I’m sure this particular piece was part of someone’s fabric stash once upon a time.
If I had to be really picky with the fit, I might add a centimetre or two to the sleeve length (a typical adjustment for me) and a centimetre to the arm with a full-bicep adjustment. I don’t really need it with this fabric, but I’d like to make the shirt again in linen and that has a lot less give. And in some fabric, like flannel, I might go up a size for a relaxed look. But my shirt is very wearable as it is.
The pattern doesn’t ask for interfacing on the sleeve placket, but my fabric was really thin (though opaque!) and sewing the buttonhole caused the fabric to bunch a little. You can barely see it. Still, I’ll probably add some (very lightweight) interfacing if I sew this again in a similar fabric.
I used faux felled seams around the arm on the inside, and everything looks as nice on the inside as on the outside.
This isn’t the first shirt I’ve made of course, but the number of professional features if higher than on any other I’ve made. I’m really happy with the results.
I’m already planning a couple more.
Summary
Pattern Review: Liesl + Co.’s classic shirt, available in sizes 0 to 20. View A. Fabric: Cotton shirting from Our Social Fabric. Size: 14, D-cup. Cost: Pattern: $18.95 USD. Fabric: About $14. Sewing Level: Intermediate. Modifications: None. Results: Fantastic!
Over spring break kid #1 decided they wanted to sew something!
Although they’ve made some small hand-sewn projects over the years, this was the first time sewing a garment with a machine. The results were great! Especially for a beginner. I’m a very proud mama.
The pattern is Jalie 4020, the Florence Shirt and Shirtdress. The pattern-maker describes it as follows:
Boxy button-front shirt and shirtdress with band collar, cut-in sleeves finished with a band, and rectangle chest pockets.
I can confirm, it’s exactly as advertised.
This was my first time working with Jalie patterns. All the sizes come on the same sheet of paper (not tissue), nested (generally) and you just trace out the size you need.
The instructions were good, but a bit brief, and printed right on the pattern sheet. However, Jalie also offers stand-alone instructions for all their patterns as PDF downloads on standard printer paper. You can see the instructions for this particular pattern here. I love this! It’s so convenient for screens while you are sewing, especially tablets.
I also appreciate the large size range. It makes it easy to use the patterns more than once, and to grade between sizes.
The pockets are really large. We’ve already sewn this a second time in cotton gauze (photos soon) and in a more drapey fabric they look a bit less boxy. But that’s the design! It’s just like the picture.
This is a nice, easy beginner project – though I helped with the buttonholes and buttons.
There is no tricky piecing and no set-in sleeves – which is unusual for a button-up shirt, but handy when you are learning to sew.
The most difficult part for a beginner was turning the one-piece collar and edge-stitching neatly through all the layers of fabric.
The fabric is a floral cotton poplin – a great fabric for people just learning to sew.
Summary
Pattern Review:Jalie 4020, the Florence Shirt and Shirtdress, available in 28 sizes from 2T to 24. View A (shirt). Fabric: Cotton poplin from Fabricville. Size: T. Jalie uses their own sizing system, but this is about a size 14 in Big Four pattern sizing. Cost: Pattern: $16. Fabric: About $20. Sewing Level: Easy. Modifications: None. Results: Great!
This is a bit of a departure – celadon! This is not my colour, but it’s also not my size either.
Kid No. 3 wanted a grown-up dress, and this was what she picked: New Look N6696 in a celadon tencel rayon. She’s a tween and this style was fashionable enough for her, but age-appropriate.
This is a slippery fabric to work with and not one I’d recommend to beginners. It’s slippery, stretches easily, and frays as you sew. But it’s also very soft and the drape is amazing.
Mostly as a reminder to myself, some tips that make this fabric a little easier to work with.
Wash and dry the fabric (in the dryer) before getting started. It shrinks a lot.
Cut using a rotary cutter. The fabric shifts a little too much with shears, and having everything start out very precise makes assembly easier.
Mark generously if using chalk. The chalk rubs off very easily, and snips are impractical with the degree of fraying.
Lay all the pieces flat and keep them that way as long as you can.
French seams, rolled hems, and bound seams will keep things tidier on the inside of the garment. I zigzagged, and this was a mistake with this fabric.
Careful with the iron – the fabric marks easily. But don’t skip the ironing, or the seams will look sloppy.
Hang the garment overnight before hemming, as the fabric shifts.
Use a walking foot, or in my case the Pfaff IDT. It keeps the fabric nicely lined up while you stitch.
Use a fine needle – I used a 70.
Use fine pins.
Use a slightly longer stitch length.
The pattern is N6696, view B. View A has an open back, closed with a button, but I’m not sure that’s a great plan with this fabric. It would be cute though in, say, a cotton lawn. Challis is the first fabric listed by the pattern maker. That’s what I used. It also has a slit on the side, but that might have been a bit less age-appropriate.
I found the fitting of the pattern odd. I graded between a 10 on the top and a 12 at the waist, which should have made for a great fit. But I found that the top was good, a bit loose even, but the waist was still quite snug. If I were to make this again, I would grade to an even larger size at the waist. The neck was very high, to the point of being uncomfortable. I lowered the neckline by about 2cm. In the end, I cut 6 inches off the hem, so this pattern really had a lot of extra length, even with the shorter version. The sleeves also seemed a bit longer than the photo on the pattern.
Assembly was great though. Had I used a different fabric, this would have been an easy project. As it was, with the challis and the close fit, it was a little more challenging. The instructions were good – accurate, and just detailed enough. The construction details are well-suited to the recommended fabrics.
This is perhaps the most invisible I’ve ever made a zipper. I also had good results with the bias binding at the neck, and a narrow hem on the skirt. With a different fabric, the results would likely be even better.
Will I sew it again? I’m not sure. This dress is not exactly my style, so we’ll have to wait and see if I get a request for another.
Size: 10 graded to 12 at the waist. Cost: Pattern: $10. Fabric: About $30. Sewing Level: Easy, just not in this particular fabric. Modifications: I graded between sizes, and lowered the neckline. Results: Good. The design is lovely, but the fit was a little off.
