handmade Archives - The Finished Garment

Guest Sewist: Who Let the Cat Out of the Bag?

This project was an amazing beginning and a bittersweet end at the same time.

One of my favourite pattern companies is oliver + s. They have the cutest children’s patterns and each one is like a mini sewing lesson. I have sewn these patterns for my kids for years, but the last kid just grew out of the largest children’s size. But before packing all those patterns up (at least for a while), I used one to help my youngest with one of her first sewing projects – a bag.

The oliver + s messenger bag in the small size.

The pattern is the messenger bag by oliver + s. I have the book, little things to sew, which includes the pattern, but you can also buy it as a stand alone pattern.

This is a really cute pattern, for a lined bag with two cargo-style pockets in the front, each with a flap, and two small pockets on each side. Of course, you can always add more features, but this was a beginning sewist project.

There are small pockets on each side. Just the right size for a bus pass, or a couple of pens.

This is the small size, which is meant to be a child’s messenger bag, but works well as a cross-body bag for a tween. It carries a notebook, a water bottle, and a card game, or a heap of cuddly friends.

The outer fabric is the Wilo utility cotton twill in sienna rose from the Fabric Club. The inside is quilting cotton in Bears by Crissie Rodda for Paintbrush Studio Fabrics. The pattern calls for a half-yard of each, but there will be almost enough left over to make another bag.

The outer fabric is a cotton twill, and the inner lining fabric is quilting cotton.

We used cream bias tape throughout. The strapping is matching cream-coloured cotton webbing. There are chrome strap adjusters. The final touch is one of the badges that The Fabric Club sells, in the shape of a cat.

My tween did all the tracing, cutting, ironing, hardware installation, and most of the sewing. I helped with the bias binding. There is quite a bit and it’s a little tricky to get right when you are small, and just learning to sew.

It’s pretty easy to customize the bag, just by choosing the right fabrics.

This project took a bit of time, but the results are definitely worth it. It’s an excellent design, and the instructions are amazing (as usual with oliver + s). And best of all, it gets a lot of use. I would strongly recommend the pattern, especially for beginning bag-makers looking to make something really unique.

Summary

Pattern Review: The messenger bag by oliver + s.
Fabric: Wilo utility cotton twill in sienna rose from the Fabric Club. The inside is quilting cotton in Bears by Crissie Rodda for Paintbrush Studio Fabrics.
Notions and Equipment: Bias binding, metal strap adjusters and a patch.

Size: small.
Cost: Book: This was a gift, but the book little things to sew retails for about $30. Fabric and hardware: About $20.
Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, and I’d agree.
Modifications: None.
Results: Purrrrfect!

Simplicity S9775: Knights on Crusade

Lately, I’ve been getting lots of requests for costumes from the family, and the latest creation is a simple set of knightly tabards and a mantle (a cape) using Simplicity S9775.

Simplicity S9775 with the fleur-de-lis appliqué.

This is a unisex costume that comes in a single size. However, I still made some size adjustments. For my tween, I removed about 4″ total from the width. For my husband, I added the same amount of total width (he’s usually a men’s large). I made View C, which is the shorter length, and skipped the front and back vents. Yes, I realize this will make it more difficult for my knights to ride their horses. lol.

The fussiest part of the pattern is the appliqué, and I recruited my tween to cut out these pieces. There are three different options, and I used two of them. I simply used a zigzag stitch to apply them. This was a costume, after all.

The main fabric is mystery fabric from the Seconde Fibre section of The Fabric Club. Their goal with this department is to sell deadstock, remnants, and other unusual fabrics at low prices to prevent them from ending up in landfills.

The fabric I used was possibly drapery. The pattern calls for a woven, but I used a knit. It’s a black burnout knit with a floral brocade-style pattern and a satin-velour finish. Probably, this is mostly synthetic.

I found a small remnant (under 1 m) of the Fabric Club’s majestic satin in red for the appliqués. This is a very beautiful but also very slippery fabric! I interfaced the appliqués with regular interfacing to keep them stable while sewing. I loved the satin so much, I went back to get more for another project (not a costume).

However, this project would have been a bit easier if I hadn’t chosen a fabric as shifty as this, such as upholstery brocade, for example. Sewing the slipperiest satin ever to a knit was challenging. For the heraldic shield, I attached the decorative braid first and that made it easier to attach, and removed the need for seam finishes on the satin as the fabric was completely enclosed.

I love the contrast between black and red. It gives the costumes a nice Knights Templar or Knights Hospitaller vibe.

For an added regal touch I used gimp braid from the upholstery section to trim the tabards. It was also the end of the roll. I used upholstery cord for the belts.

My tween cut out the appliqués, and I attached them using a zigzag stitch. I used upholstery braid for trim.

I had only planned to make the tabards, but there was so much fabric left over I managed to get a mantle as well. I didn’t line it, though – mostly because I didn’t have enough knit fabric for that. I made it as long as possible to use up all the fabric, so it’s a bit longer than the short length. Unfortunately, it was whisked away before I could get a good photo.

This was an extremely easy pattern to sew. I finished both tabards and the mantle in a day. I’d strongly recommend the costume for someone looking for a quick project with great results.

Summary

Pattern Review: Simplicity S9775, Unisex Costume Tabards, Capes and Heraldic Shields in one size.
Fabric: Mystery fabric from Seconde Vie, and majestic satin from the Fabric Club in red.
Notions and Equipment: Gimp braid and cord from the upholstery section.

Size: One size.
Cost: Pattern: $7.22 Fabric: About $20. Notions: About $20 for gimp braid and cord.
Sewing Level: Easy according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say very easy.
Modifications: I changed the width, depending on the wearer, left out the front and back vents, and did not line the mantle.
Results: Ready for adventure!

Make It Smaller: Noodlehead Sandhill Sling

One day a loved one might look at your sewing project, and say “Hey, can you make one for me too? Except smaller, and in a very uncompromising fabric?”

And it might look something like this. Lol!

This is a mini-version of the Noodlehead Patterns’ Sandhill Sling.

The pattern normally makes a bag that is 7” wide by 3” deep and 11” tall (17.8 cm x 7.6 cm x 28 cm). For this version, I made a bag that is about 6” wide by 3” deep and 9” tall. The pattern doesn’t come with this size. I just did a little math.

I sourced most of the materials from Our Social Fabric, a non-profit fabric store that sells headstock.

The outside is some sort of mystery water-resistant (water-proof?) technical fabric. It has no give whatsoever, making sewing around those corners tough! Pressing was also extra tricky – this fabric melts easily.

I used iron-on interfacing, but if I had to do it again with technical fabric, I’d use sew-in interfacing.

The striped webbing is also from Our Social Fabric.

I made a few adjustments. Just like last time, I added two d-rings so that the bag can be worn on either shoulder.

I added an internal pocket again, but this time I added a layer of quilt batting to both sides of the pocket. This gives gadgets a bit of extra protection. The batting was left over from a quilting project. This bag fits an iPhone Pro Max with room to spare.

I also added an inner zipper pocket on the opposite side. It’s about the right size for a couple of credit cards. The inside of the bag is made with quilting cotton.

There is a key leash as well. It’s made of grosgrain elastic with a swivel hook. And all the zippers have zipper pulls made of elastic cord.

I sourced the zippers and metal hardware from Wawak.

As a little extra, I included an earbud case. This is the Circle Zip Earbud Pouch from Dog Under my Desk. I used some leftovers from my scrap bin for this.

I also made a matching key fob, to make it a matching set.

I hope it’s a hit!

Summary

Pattern Review: Digital Sandhill Sling by Noodlehead Patterns, available in just the one size.
Fabric: Mystery fabrics from Our Social Fabric.
Notions and Equipment: Needle: universal 11/80. Zippers in “galena grey” and bag hardware in “nickel” from Wawak. I also used some grosgrain ribbon and elastic cording from Our Social Fabric.
Size: One size – miniaturized here.
Cost: Pattern: $10 USD (this is the second bag I’ve made with the pattern). Fabric: About $20. Webbing: $3. Hardware: About $15. Although there is enough of the hardware for a second bag, and enough fabric for two.
Sewing Level: Advanced, if using technical fabric with no stretch! lol. Average, otherwise.
Modifications: I added a swivel cord attachment for my keys, padding, and an extra inner pocket, and a carry handle.
Results: Amazing!

Heart Quilt

The thing about having four kids is that if you make one a quilt, you’re going to make them all a quilt.

This is the quilt for my third. She has very particular tastes and she preferred to choose a pattern, so she would have a better idea of how the finished product would look.

I used Quilty Hearts by Emily Dennis at quiltylove.com. It uses a four-patch design on the bias in pinks, reds and white to make hearts, then adds strips of diagonal sashing.

It’s a very easy pattern to use and the instructions were great. The quilt top came together quite quickly.

I mostly used Art Gallery Fabrics. The prints are all from the Love Struck Fabric Collection and the solids are from their pure solids collection.

For the background I used Kona snow. This is my favourite “white” fabric. It’s just a bit off-white and gives a softer look.

For the backing, I used Moonscape by Dear Stella in Apricot. I chose the wide-back, just to make things a bit easier.

I did all the quilting as straight-line quilting, but it makes an “x” shape – like a kiss! So it’s definitely on theme.

This was a beast to sew on my standard machine, because of the constant switching of directions and the need to roll up the quilt again with many of the directional switches. I’m seriously considering a machine with a higher tower height!

But the results were worth the extra effort – so crinkly! I adore this texture. It’s just heaven. I used cotton batting and cotton thread to help with the crinkly effect.

Quilt Summary

Pattern: Quilty Hearts by Emily Dennis at quiltylove.com

Quilt Top:

Solids: Art Gallery Fabrics Pure Solids
- Hibiscus
- Cactus Flower
- Sweet Pink
- Quartz Pink
Prints: Love Struck Fabric Collection by Art Gallery Fabrics Studio
- Sweet on You
- Love Letters
- Pieces of You
- Love Lane
- Cherry-ish You