Sewing for Men Archives - The Finished Garment

Simplicity S9775: Knights on Crusade

Lately, I’ve been getting lots of requests for costumes from the family, and the latest creation is a simple set of knightly tabards and a mantle (a cape) using Simplicity S9775.

Simplicity S9775 with the fleur-de-lis appliqué.

This is a unisex costume that comes in a single size. However, I still made some size adjustments. For my tween, I removed about 4″ total from the width. For my husband, I added the same amount of total width (he’s usually a men’s large). I made View C, which is the shorter length, and skipped the front and back vents. Yes, I realize this will make it more difficult for my knights to ride their horses. lol.

The fussiest part of the pattern is the appliqué, and I recruited my tween to cut out these pieces. There are three different options, and I used two of them. I simply used a zigzag stitch to apply them. This was a costume, after all.

The main fabric is mystery fabric from the Seconde Fibre section of The Fabric Club. Their goal with this department is to sell deadstock, remnants, and other unusual fabrics at low prices to prevent them from ending up in landfills.

The fabric I used was possibly drapery. The pattern calls for a woven, but I used a knit. It’s a black burnout knit with a floral brocade-style pattern and a satin-velour finish. Probably, this is mostly synthetic.

I found a small remnant (under 1 m) of the Fabric Club’s majestic satin in red for the appliqués. This is a very beautiful but also very slippery fabric! I interfaced the appliqués with regular interfacing to keep them stable while sewing. I loved the satin so much, I went back to get more for another project (not a costume).

However, this project would have been a bit easier if I hadn’t chosen a fabric as shifty as this, such as upholstery brocade, for example. Sewing the slipperiest satin ever to a knit was challenging. For the heraldic shield, I attached the decorative braid first and that made it easier to attach, and removed the need for seam finishes on the satin as the fabric was completely enclosed.

I love the contrast between black and red. It gives the costumes a nice Knights Templar or Knights Hospitaller vibe.

For an added regal touch I used gimp braid from the upholstery section to trim the tabards. It was also the end of the roll. I used upholstery cord for the belts.

My tween cut out the appliqués, and I attached them using a zigzag stitch. I used upholstery braid for trim.

I had only planned to make the tabards, but there was so much fabric left over I managed to get a mantle as well. I didn’t line it, though – mostly because I didn’t have enough knit fabric for that. I made it as long as possible to use up all the fabric, so it’s a bit longer than the short length. Unfortunately, it was whisked away before I could get a good photo.

This was an extremely easy pattern to sew. I finished both tabards and the mantle in a day. I’d strongly recommend the costume for someone looking for a quick project with great results.

Summary

Pattern Review: Simplicity S9775, Unisex Costume Tabards, Capes and Heraldic Shields in one size.
Fabric: Mystery fabric from Seconde Vie, and majestic satin from the Fabric Club in red.
Notions and Equipment: Gimp braid and cord from the upholstery section.

Size: One size.
Cost: Pattern: $7.22 Fabric: About $20. Notions: About $20 for gimp braid and cord.
Sewing Level: Easy according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say very easy.
Modifications: I changed the width, depending on the wearer, left out the front and back vents, and did not line the mantle.
Results: Ready for adventure!

Drafted to the Rebel Alliance

For Valentine’s Day, Mr Garment requested a pair of shorts. So easy! So quick! “Yay,” I thought to myself. “I’m set.”

He picked the fabric – some very dark navy fleece interlock. I didn’t have a shorts pattern for men, but I didn’t want to buy one for something so simple. So I used Vogue 8964, which is a pyjama pattern that I’ve used before. I knew the fit would be good and it was already traced out.

I whipped up a pair of quick shorts in an evening. The only changes I made were to add pockets and skip the fly and drawstring. They were fast, easy, fit well, and yawn, sooooo very boring.

So I asked Mr Garment if he would mind if I painted them. “Um, I guess so. They’re just for working out…,” he said with significant eyebrow raising.

So I made up a quick stencil and got some fabric paint and drafted him to the Rebel Alliance*. Less boring! And still good for just working out.

Vogue 8964 men's pyjama shorts sewing pattern, as sewn by The Finished Garment. — Drafted for intergalactic rebellion!

*Obligatory legalese: These are not official licensed shorts, and are not for sale. These are just fan art.

Summary

Pattern: Vogue 8964 (view E).

Fabric: Dark navy fleece interlock.

Size: 42.

Cost: Fabric: $8 for 1.5m. Pattern: free (I have used it before). Total: $8.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: Added pockets, and omitted the drawstring and fly.

Results: Quick, and easy.

Cozy for Christmas

Vogue 8964 Sewing Pattern for men's pyjamas and robe — Vogue 8964 Sewing Pattern for men’s pyjamas and robe

This fall, Vogue quietly released another men’s pattern – Vogue 8964. It’s a pattern for men’s pyjamas and a matching robe.

“Just what the world needs! Another pattern for men’s pyjamas,” I thought at the time.

Then my husband asked me to make him pyjamas for Christmas and I realized I had no pattern, and so I bought this pattern at the next sale. So, well played, Vogue Patterns. Well, played. And also, I suppose I am proof that total market saturation in men’s pyjama patterns has not yet been achieved.

This is a Christmas gift but not a surprise. My husband is picky, so I made him choose his own fabric. This is a yarn dyed plaid flannel from one of the local chain stores. It looks nice, feels super soft, but ravels like crazy. It’s also extremely forgiving, since the plaid pattern hides any minor errors. On the other hand it is almost impossible to see your stitching.

My husband only wanted the pants. These are elastic waist, with a faux drawstring (which I left out), button fly and slightly tapered leg.

The button fly is really nicely designed. I haven’t done much sewing for men, and I’ve never sewn this type of three-layer fly before, but it wasn’t difficult.

I made some minor changes. I left out the drawstring, since it is decorative. I also added inseam pockets, which are under stitched and attached at the waistband. Because the fabric ravelled so much, and because it looks more professional, I used flat felled seams in most cases.

I only have two complaints. First, the pattern should really include pockets, like ready-to-wear pjs. Second, the instructions advise you to attach the button for the fly, before assembling the rest of the pants. However, the fly hangs from the waistband and the buttonhole position can shift a little, once everything is put together. I had to cut mine off and re-attach it.

The pants are on the long side. My husband is 5’11”, and I still had to cut 3″ off the bottom while hemming.

But why this pattern?

This has to be the only category of patterns for men (except possibly scrubs) where there is an embarrassment of choice. Vogue and Burda have only one men’s or unisex PJ pattern each. Butterick has three. McCalls has five. Simplicity and New Look each have six and Kwik Sew has seven. That’s 29 in-print patterns to choose from, folks. Crazy.

In the end I chose this one because it looked the most finished and comprehensive. The pattern includes piping detail and a real fly, for example. It also includes a robe. It’s a pattern I would use to make pjs for myself. And it was on sale.

I’m really happy with the results. The fit is good. The fly made it slightly longer to make then some of the simpler patterns out there, but it was still a very quick make. The pattern is rated “easy” by Vogue, and that sounds about right. Best of all, it looks like store-bought pjs.

Summary

Pattern Review: Vogue 8964.

Fabric: Flannel.

Size: 42.

Cost: Fabric: $11 for 2m. Pattern: $3.99. Total: $15.

Sewing Level: Beginner.

Modifications: Added pockets and omitted the drawstring.

Results: Quick, with nice finishing details. I would make it again.

And Now for Something Completely Different…

I’ve been tackling the unfinished object (UFO) pile and I’m down to zero UFO quilt projects (woot! woot!), four kids projects (three for Halloween), and let’s just agree not to talk about my pile, shall we? So it was clearly time for a new category of sewing projects: men’s wear!

These are Vogue 8889 and Vogue 8890, which I am making for Mr Garment. I’ll be making the shirt and pants but not the jacket. Well, one day the jacket, but not anytime soon.

Vogue 8889 (men's shirt) and Vogue 8890 (men's pants and jacket) — Vogue 8889 (men’s shirt) and Vogue 8890 (men’s pants and jacket)

I had planned to make this a surprise and had bought some grey shirting, but when I showed it to Mr Garment, he was not too impressed. Not his style it seems. So we all headed out to the fabric store and he chose some plain black shirting, another shirting fabric which is much nicer in a purple stripe and some grey wool for the pants in Vogue 9980 in a (slight) stretch wool.

The second one is the grey that Mr Garment did not care for. The other three are his choices.

Mr Garment has a corporate job and likes a nice suit. His style runs conservative, but he likes European-cut clothes, and isn’t afraid of a little colour.

A close up so you can see the fabrics a little better.

I’m starting with Vogue 8889, which is described as a “loose-fitting shirt has collar, collar band, self-lined yoke with forward shoulder seams, side front/side back seams, flat-fell seams, shaped hemline and narrow hem.” I will be making version C.

I’ve already made one muslin. I made it out of some stash fabric I had bought years ago for a craft project. It is crazy and I did not insist on photos, because I am not that mean. I used this fabric because I really had no idea what size to start with – I’ve only made Mr Garment Halloween costumes before – and didn’t want to waste good fabric.

My muslin. Anyone in the mood to watch a musical about a coat? — My crazy muslin. Anyone in the mood to watch a musical about a coat?

I cut a 44, and so far the fit is really nice. Despite being billed as “loose-fitting”, it is actually fairly fitted. The shirt is made with side panels, which resemble ~~princess seams~~ (ahem) manly seams which allow for a really nice shape. Mr Garment likes a fitted, European-style, tailored shirt, so this is good. The sleeves are the right length as well. The shirt length is also good (Mr Garment is 5’11”). But the shoulders are too wide, and Mr Garment is a fairly wide-shouldered guy.

Peter Lapin of Male Pattern Boldness has several blog posts on this particular pattern which are very helpful. He narrowed the yoke by an inch on each side, but I only need to do this by 1/2 an inch per side. He shows his pattern modifications on his blog, so if you are thinking of trying this pattern, it’s definitely worth taking a look. You can see two finished versions of the shirt in this post.

You can also see some nice versions of this shirt, on other blogs, here, here, and here.

Next I’ll have to check the collar, and then I’ll cut out the black shirt.

My Imaginary Life Through Vintage Pattern Illustrations

My mother recently cleaned up all her patterns and gave me all the ones she wasn’t going to sew again. I am so psyched about all the retro things these new patterns say I can now do.

I can attend a 1960’s cocktail party.

Simplicity 7129 Jiffy – Juniors Simple to Sew Jiffy Dress: The A-line dress with back zipper and collar has slightly lowered round neckline in front tapering to “V” neckline in back. V 1 has short set-in sleeves. Sleeveless V 2 has tie collar.

I can go to the beach. (I am totally making view A, by the way.)

Style 2442; ©1969; Misses’ Beach Robe in Two Lengths, Bikini and Skirt: The beachrobe with stand collar has front zip fastening. View A has long set-in sleeves. View B shorter length is sleeveless. The lined bikini has top with tie front fastening, inside bust shapes and elastic casing at back lower edge. The pants have waist darts and back zip fastening. The A-line skirt has side zip fastening, self fabric carriers and cord tie.

I can go to various mod-themed events.

McCall's 2438 — McCall’s 2438; ©1970; Misses’ Dress in Three Versions. Dress has concealed left front zipper closing. Dress may have buttoned collar. View C has button trimmed, tab pocket.

Me having dinner out with the Mr. (Is this Yé-yé?)

Simplicity 8181; ©1969; Simple-To-Sew Misses’ Jiffy Dress: The dress with back zipper and lowered round neckline has slightly dropped shoulders and optional tie belt. V. 1 has long, set-in sleeves. V. 2 is sleeveless.

I just don’t know here. Fabulousness just can’t be limited to time and place sometimes. Love that collar! I must make that red cape. I just need to decide between a zipper or leather buckles.