Who doesn’t want a new red flannel jacket? I have been coveting a plaid overshirt for ages, and this one is pretty close to my dream jacket.
I used the Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns. I wanted a chore coat/shacket/overshirt, and I chose this pattern because it has a lot more shape than other patterns. I didn’t want too boxy a fit. The front of this jacket includes a dart, and the side seams are essentially low-curve princess seams.
I made some changes to the fit. I did an FBA (as usual) and this worked really well. I normally lengthen the sleeves, but the sleeves on this pattern are already a bit long, so this wasn’t necessary.
I made the size 46, which is one size up from my measurements. I was hoping it would be oversized, but it is a more classic fit. If I made this again, I would go up another size. The arms were a bit tight, so I switched to a 1/4″ seam allowance in the sleeves. If I make this again, I might add just a bit of width. I chose View B, and included the back vent.
This pattern is rated Intermediate, but I would say it’s really advanced.
The pockets are designed in a clever way to keep all the seams nicely finished, but the design is finicky and hard to get right. I ripped out the pockets three times trying to get it right and had to put this jacket in the naughty corner for a while, and work on a different project for a while.
When I finally got them in, I found the pockets to be extremely small, barely large enough for my phone and too small for my hands. So I designed my own pockets to replace them.
I made pockets that are much larger – both wider and deeper – and created a separate inside pocket for mittens in the fall by keeping the inside top open.
I didn’t have enough fabric left to use flannel to remake the pockets. Instead, I used chambray, which has the advantage of being thinner. In retrospect, this was a much better choice for the pockets.
If I made this again, I would use the same pocket design and have them extend across the full width of the jacket front. I left off the top chest pocket.
I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.
I used Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. This is a heavier-weight flannel and is well-suited for this type of garment. It was very easy to work with. It also doesn’t shrink like less expensive flannel. I used the “wrong” softer side on the outside, and the slightly nubbly side on the inside.
I got this fabric from Rives et Co. when they closed their business last year. It’s so sad to see indie fabric stores close. 🙁
This is a windowpane plaid, and I’m really proud of the plaid/stripe matching job I did.
This pattern calls for 2.2m of fabric with a width of 140 cm for View B. I used 2.5m of fabric with a width of 112 cm. It was a remnant.
The elbow patches are made from some black chambray I had left over from another project. I used some printed ribbon to make a jacket hanging loop.
I switched out the buttons the pattern called for with Prym anorak snaps in black. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install them, and I love this tool! Definitely worth the money. They were so easy to use, super fast, and the snaps were very securely installed. Also, so much quieter than a hammer late at night when you just have to add the snaps to finish, but everyone else is sleeping.
Summary
Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Komugi Overshirt, available in sizes EU 32-54. View B. I made size 46.
Fabric: Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red.
Notions and Equipment: Prym anorak snaps in black.
Size: 46.
Cost: Pattern: €12.50. Fabric: $31.25. Hardware: About $10 for snaps.
Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say advanced.
Modifications: FBA. Switched from buttons to snaps, made the pockets larger. Skipped the top chest pocket.
Results: Cozy!
