Jacket Archives - The Finished Garment

Who doesn’t want a new red flannel jacket? I have been coveting a plaid overshirt for ages, and this one is pretty close to my dream jacket.

The Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns in red, windowpane plaid.

I used the Komugi Overshirt pattern by Waffle Patterns. I wanted a chore coat/shacket/overshirt, and I chose this pattern because it has a lot more shape than other patterns. I didn’t want too boxy a fit. The front of this jacket includes a dart, and the side seams are essentially low-curve princess seams.

I made some changes to the fit. I did an FBA (as usual) and this worked really well. I normally lengthen the sleeves, but the sleeves on this pattern are already a bit long, so this wasn’t necessary.

I made the size 46, which is one size up from my measurements. I was hoping it would be oversized, but it is a more classic fit. If I made this again, I would go up another size. The arms were a bit tight, so I switched to a 1/4″ seam allowance in the sleeves. If I make this again, I might add just a bit of width. I chose View B, and included the back vent.

This pattern is rated Intermediate, but I would say it’s really advanced.

The pockets are designed in a clever way to keep all the seams nicely finished, but the design is finicky and hard to get right. I ripped out the pockets three times trying to get it right and had to put this jacket in the naughty corner for a while, and work on a different project for a while.

The pocket opening, seen from the outside.

When I finally got them in, I found the pockets to be extremely small, barely large enough for my phone and too small for my hands. So I designed my own pockets to replace them.

I made pockets that are much larger – both wider and deeper – and created a separate inside pocket for mittens in the fall by keeping the inside top open.

I didn’t have enough fabric left to use flannel to remake the pockets. Instead, I used chambray, which has the advantage of being thinner. In retrospect, this was a much better choice for the pockets.

If I made this again, I would use the same pocket design and have them extend across the full width of the jacket front. I left off the top chest pocket.

The inside of the jacket, showing the new, larger pocket design that includes an inner pocket for mittens.

I used faux flat-felled seams wherever possible.

I used Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red. This is a heavier-weight flannel and is well-suited for this type of garment. It was very easy to work with. It also doesn’t shrink like less expensive flannel. I used the “wrong” softer side on the outside, and the slightly nubbly side on the inside.

I got this fabric from Rives et Co. when they closed their business last year. It’s so sad to see indie fabric stores close. 🙁

This is a windowpane plaid, and I’m really proud of the plaid/stripe matching job I did.

This pattern calls for 2.2m of fabric with a width of 140 cm for View B. I used 2.5m of fabric with a width of 112 cm. It was a remnant.

I used black chambray for the elbow patches and inner pockets.

The elbow patches are made from some black chambray I had left over from another project. I used some printed ribbon to make a jacket hanging loop.

I added a jacket hanging loop using printed grossgrain ribbon.

I switched out the buttons the pattern called for with Prym anorak snaps in black. I used the Prym Vario pliers to install them, and I love this tool! Definitely worth the money. They were so easy to use, super fast, and the snaps were very securely installed. Also, so much quieter than a hammer late at night when you just have to add the snaps to finish, but everyone else is sleeping.

Summary

Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Komugi Overshirt, available in sizes EU 32-54. View B. I made size 46.
Fabric: Mammoth organic flannel by Robert Kaufman in red.
Notions and Equipment: Prym anorak snaps in black.

Size: 46.
Cost: Pattern: €12.50. Fabric: $31.25. Hardware: About $10 for snaps.
Sewing Level: Intermediate according to the pattern-maker, but I’d say advanced.
Modifications: FBA. Switched from buttons to snaps, made the pockets larger. Skipped the top chest pocket.
Results: Cozy!

Well, it’s not quite spring here, but mother nature is working on it. So this pattern came along just in time. It’s the Spring Showers Jacket by Elegance & Elephants (yay! Canadian content!) and I was lucky enough to be a pattern tester.

The Spring Showers Jacket sewing pattern by Elegance & Elephants, as sewn by The Finished Garment. — The jacket is a big hit and fits well with room for layers underneath. And yes, this is what April looks like in Montreal.

It’s a lined, zip-front, hooded jacket. You can make a version with a cinched waist, but I like this version better.

I was going to make a waterproof/water-resistant version, but the one day I could get to the fabric store…. snow storm! So I shopped my stash instead. I used a (hard to photograph) navy, 100 per cent cotton twill for the outer fabric and quilting cotton for the inner fabric. I thought about using lining fabric on the sleeves, to make them easier to slide on and off. Montreal may be Hoth in the winter, but it’s Tatooine in the summer. Cotton breathes better, so this will be a better summer jacket this way.

I made the size 4/5 for Kid No 2. Usually he wears a size 5, and the fit of the jacket was just right. Room to move and grow and layer over whatever he’s wearing.