Tag: French Terry

Ottobre Zip Hoodie for Orange Shirt Day

Tomorrow is the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation. The day honours the children who never returned home and survivors of residential schools, as well as their families and communities.

It’s informally known as Orange Shirt Day, inspired by the accounts of Phyllis Jack Webstad, who had her orange shirt confiscated in the residential school system.

In honour of the day, I decided to make myself an orange hoodie.

This is the Ottobre Women’s Hoodie. Ottobre normally sells fabric and sewing magazines, but they make a small handful of patterns available for download on Etsy. This pattern was originally in the autumn/winter 5/2007 edition of the magazine (now sold out).

Ottobre is based in Finland and is probably best known for its children’s patterns, but its adult patterns are quite nice, especially its athleisure designs.

Ottobre Magazine places its patterns overlapped on a few pattern sheets, double-sided, without seam allowances. I was hoping the download would be simpler, but nope, it was also overlapped without seam allowances. That means that after taping your home-printed sheets together, you’ll still need to trace out each pattern sheet and add seam allowances. Still, it was worth it.

The drafting is excellent. It’s a longer, fitted hoodie, a bit more of a yoga hoodie, and not boxy at all.

The instructions call for a lot of flatlock stitching – which is best accomplished on a serger. I don’t have one, so I used my regular sewing machine. I could have used a decorative stretch stitch, but after testing, I decided I liked the monochrome look.

This pattern includes ribbing on the cuffs and around the pockets, and seam binding on the neck seam, which gives it a very professional finish.

I forgot to put the grommets in, so no drawstring for me, but the pattern has a very cute drawstring I’ll add next time.

This pattern, like most Ottobre patterns, comes in a large size range (34-52), and it’s designed with a C-cup, and adjusted for extra curves at the larger sizes, which means I didn’t need to make any adjustments.

The fabric is deadstock from Our Social Fabric. It’s a poly-cotton French terry with matching ribbing, and yes, it’s very bright! The pattern calls for fabric with 30% stretch, and this has a bit more. The elastic gross-grain I used to finish the neck seam came from the same place.

The trickiest part was getting the zipper in. The pattern asks for “fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband, width 12 mm”. That’s not easily found on the North American market. I used Heat’n Bond Soft Stretch. The main difference is that this is a double-sided tape. Basting was key!

As usual with Ottobre, the instructions were detailed, but brief, and not illustrated. I wouldn’t recommend the pattern for a beginner. But for someone with a couple hoodies already off the machine, this pattern is excellent.

I’m super happy with this hoodie and I can’t wait to wear it tomorrow.

Summary

Pattern Review: Ottobre Women’s Hoodie, available in sizes 34-52 EU. I made size 46.
Fabric: Deadstock poly-cotton French terry in orange blaze from Our Social Fabric. Cuffs are a rib in the same colourway. 
Fibre content: 68% cotton, 28% polyester.
Notions and Equipment: Separating zipper, Heat n’ Bond Soft Stretch.

Size: 46 
Cost: Pattern: $$10.54. Fabric: $33.80 (though there is enough for another project). Hardware: about $5. 
Sewing Level: Average.
Modifications: Accidentally skipped the drawstrings.
Results: On point!

In the Limelight: Jalie 3355

I was so happy with the last sweatshirt I made, that I decided to make another.

Apparently, lime green is on trend, and so are the 90s – though maybe not this part of the 90s. Lol. Hopefully this reads a bit more Colors of Benetton and a bit less Fresh Prince of Bel Air. Either way, it’s lots of fun.

I have a couple more lime green pieces in the sewing queue, so hopefully I can get some full outfit photos soon.

The fabric is a cotton french terry from  l’Oiseau Fabrics that I bought ages ago. The lime green cotton ribbing is leftover from some t-shirts I made when my kids were really little.

This pattern is Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. Jalie uses their own sizing system, and this is size AA. This is this is the equivalent of a size 14 in ready-to-wear.

The pattern instructions say to “use the size corresponding to full bust
measurement for the sweatshirt”. Haha! No. Don’t do this. I mean, I know I’m a D-cup, but this is a knit!

I did try this first, but the sweatshirt was huge and very unflattering. It would be “ok”, if you had a drapey fabric and were looking for an oversize look. And yes, this is on trend right now! But for this project, I wanted something a bit more “standard” in terms of sizing. And the fabric I used is a more structured cotton terry.

So I recut in the size that matched what I usually buy in a ready-to-wear sweatshirt (two sizes below what the pattern maker recommends), and that was indeed the right size.

I made a couple of changes. The neck band looked a little wide in lime green, so I made it a bit more narrow. I think it would look great as is, if I had chosen monochromatic ribbing though.

I added a little tag to the back so you can tell which way the shirt goes.

I also removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length. I didn’t want this to look cropped, but I also didn’t want it too long. This fabric is a bit structured, so it doesn’t pool nicely at the waist. But in another project, depending on the look you want and fabric you choose, the length might work. With the reduced length, the waistband just covers the waistband of my jeans.

If I make this again, I might make the body narrow a bit more towards the waist, instead of the more rectangular default cut. I have a store-bought sweatshirt like that and I find it’s flattering on my figure. But it will depend on the project.

The instructions were great. Again, I love having the instructions as a PDF download. I usually sew with my tablet nearby, and this is very convenient.

Summary

Pattern Review: Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt, Hoodie and Sweat Pants. View B.
Fabric: Cotton french terry from  l’Oiseau Fabrics and cotton ribbing from my stash.
Size: Available in sizes size 2T (toddler) to about size 22. This is size AA, the equivalent of a 14.
Cost: Pattern: About $14. Fabric: I can’t remember!
Sewing Level: Beginner
Modifications: I reduced the with of the ribbing at the neck, and removed 3″ (about 7.5 cm) from the length.
Results: Fun!

Sunshine in the Snow

My latest project was a mistake. I ordered french terry to make a sweatshirt, thinking it was the same fabric I had seen in the store, but I was wrong. Ordering fabric online is hard.

 Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.

Instead of soft and fluffy bamboo, it was structured cotton but with stretch – almost like ponte. It was never going to make a good sweatshirt.

The fabric is great, of course. It just wasn’t the one in my head. lol.

But it was exactly the right colour. And I had been looking for dusty rose ponte de roma for ages at Kid No. 4’s request, with no luck – it’s a bit late in the season and the spring fabrics are all coming out now.

The bow in the front is a big hit.

So I found a new project – the Heidi and Finn Cowl Neck Jumper Dress and Sweater. I have sewn this dress many times before, but in smaller sizes – three times in ponte for a structured look, and three times in ITY (interlock twist yarn) for really soft stretchy tops.

The size is just right – there is a little room to grow.

The cotton french terry worked out really well for the dress. It gives enough shape that the neckline looks good, but the cotton will be a bit cooler in spring and summer. I went with short sleeves because of the fabric.

I finished the hem with a double needle.

This time I made the dress in a size 12. The sizing is really close to a retail size 12. It fits really well, with just a little room to grow.

I don’t have a serger – I used the jersey stitch on my regular machine, and a double needle for the hem.

And yes, that means it’s my last kid in the largest size that this pattern offers. I’m a bit sad that it will need to be retired soon.

I made the short sleeved version since I think the fabric is more suited for spring more than winter.

Summary

Pattern Review: Cowl Neck Dress and Sweater by Heidi & Finn, available in sizes 12m-12Y.
Fabric: French terry (95% cotton, 5% spandex).

Size: 12.
Cost: Pattern: 0$. Fabric: About $30.
Sewing Level: Confident beginner.
Modifications: None
Results: Great, as always. This is a reliable pattern and quick to sew.

Disclaimer: The pattern was generously provided by Heidi & Finn several years ago, in return for testing the pattern. As always, my opinions are my own.

Turquoise Skater Dresses

In the after-holiday sales I picked up some really bright turquoise French terry. It was only 5$ per metre so I let each kid choose there own piece of clothing. Two chose mini-hudson pants, and two chose the Little Girls’ Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment.
This is the size 5/6.

I had been looking at the Skater Dress pattern for a while, but didn’t really have the right fabric. Ideally this would be made in jersey, but I thought the French terry be a little cozier. The dress ends up being great for our current cold weather, but still fun to wear and very comfortable. This French terry has a lot of stretch, which makes the dress very wearable, especially for kids.  It’s like your favourite sweatshirt, but it’s a dress.

Unfortunately, it’s been too cold for outdoor photo sessions and the light hasn’t been great lately generally, so you’ll have to settle for less than ideal photos this time around.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment.
This is the size 7/8.

I let the kids choose the colour of the contrast cuffs from my scrap bin. The cuffs are so bright, but they do really make the dress. With solid colours for the main part of the dress, they might be a bit plain, without that crazy pop of colour.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment.
Kid No 1 chose hot pink cuffs.

The pattern is sized to fit over two years. They fit a bit large. My kids are both at the lower ends of their ranges, but definitely too big to go down a size. I double checked the measurements, and tried the size 5/6 on my normally size 7 kid to check. Next time I might take the dress in a little through the bodice for my skinny girls, especially if I use a heavier fabric again. In jersey, it would probably be fine.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment.
Kid No 3 chose bright red cuffs.

This pattern is a really quick sew. I finished both dresses in an afternoon. The instructions were great and everything came together without any problems. I also have the women’s version of the skater dress, so I’m pretty excited to get to that soon.

Little Girls' Skater Dress sewing pattern from Kitschy Coo, sewn by The Finished Garment.
The dress is on the big size, but is supposed to last two years.

Project Summary

Pattern Review: Little Girls’ Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo, available in sizes 18m-8Y (in 4 different sizes).
Fabric: French terry, with jersey cuffs.
Sizes: 5/6 and 7/8.
Cost: Pattern: About 14$. Fabric: $5 per dress.
Project Sewing Level: Beginner.
Modifications: none.
Results: Great. The kids love wearing these.

Neon Blue Mini Hudson

This year, my only boxing day shopping took place at the fabric shop. I didn’t find much, but there was some gorgeous french terry in a neon turquoise for only 5$ a metre.

I wasn’t sure what to make so I let the kids decide and Kid No 2 and Kid No 4 chose pants. I didn’t have much in the way of knit pant patterns, especially not for fabric this thick, so I bought the Mini Hudson Pant pattern from True Bias.

Mini Hudson Pant sewing pattern from True Bias as sewn by The Finished Garment.
These were a really quick project.

There is a Mini Hudson blog hop going on at the moment if you want to see more versions. I’m not part of it, but since everyone is posting their mini hudsons, and I just made these last week, I figured I’d hurry up and post mine too. You’ll have to excuse me for showing up to the party uninvited.

Mini Hudson Pant sewing pattern from True Bias as sewn by The Finished Garment.
I made the size 7 and size 3.

This pattern makes a drawstring pant that works well with heavier fabric and is cut narrower near the ankle and wider at the hips. I used jersey scraps from two previous projects (coming soon to the blog) in black for my son and hot pink for my daughter. The pink and blue combo is a little bright, but if you can’t wear neon turquoise and hot pink when you are two, when can you?

The pants ended up a little big, but that’s a bonus in my book. The hipster styling isn’t quite as obvious for now, but it won’t be long before the kids grow up an inch or so.

Mini Hudson Pant sewing pattern from True Bias as sewn by The Finished Garment.
I used french terry for the pants and jersey for the trim.

These are really quick to sew and pretty foolproof. The only modification I made was to leave off the drawstring. Kid No 2 doesn’t like fiddly closures, even when they are just decorative and Kid No 4, at two-years-old, doesn’t need the hazard factor. And the only thing I would change in the future would be to make the waistband a bit wider, but just because I like that look.

Once again, these went right into regular circulation and so I didn’t get quite as many photos of the larger pants as I would have liked. My smaller kid was quite happy to mug it up for the camera though.

Mini Hudson Pant sewing pattern from True Bias as sewn by The Finished Garment.
So silly!

Summary

Pattern Review: Mini Hudson Pant from True Bias, available in sizes 2T-10.
Fabric: 

  • Neon turquoise french terry.
  • Cotton spandex jersey in black and fuchsia by Stenzo.

Size: 3 and 7.
Cost: Pattern: $8. Fabric: About $5 per pair of pants.
Sewing Level: Beginner.
Modifications: I left out the drawstring.
Results: Cute and comfy.

Mini Hudson Pant sewing pattern from True Bias as sewn by The Finished Garment.
These are really warm and comfy.