Valentine’s Day Pyjamas!

Valentine’s day pyjamas! They were supposed to be Christmas pyjamas, but life intervened. Oh well. It’s probably better this way, since the pyjamas aren’t competing for attention with Christmas gifts.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 3.

These are the Oliver + S Bedtime Story Pajamas. I made them four times, once for each kid, hence the delay. I used a digital pattern (a PDF download) and it worked quite well. The pattern itself is great. The only thing that is unusual is that each pattern piece is separately taped together, instead of having them all in a giant sheet. I copied each pattern piece onto tracing paper, so I had quite a few pieces of paper to keep track of. On the other hand, it means you can print out just the pieces you want, which is handy if you just want pyjama pants. I’m not sure which way is better. As always with Oliver + S patterns, the directions are excellent. I don’t have a single complaint.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 3.

I sewed a different type of ribbon into the neck and pants of each pair so that the kids can tell them apart.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 18m, with snaps.

This is the second time I’ve made the pants, but the first time I’ve made the jackets. I made sizes 18 months, 3, 4 and 5. I made the larger sizes with ties, but put in snaps for the baby sized once – otherwise, kid No 4 will just chew the ties.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 5.

I also started with snaps for the older kids. I wanted them to be able to dress themselves. But small snaps are a bit of a small target, even for little hands. I tried larger coat snaps, but then the kids couldn’t get out of them at all because it took too much strength to open the snaps. In the end I took out the snaps and put in the ties. Everyone seems to like this better.

Bedtime Story Pyjamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 18m.

The first time I made this pattern, I made just the pants in sizes 12 months, 2, 4, and 5, also in flannel, in a monster print. I think I’ve tried most of the sizes now. The only one I had a problem with was the 12 month size (not shown), which fit a bit tight in the waist and hips.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajama bottoms in flannel, sizes 2, 4, 5.

When I made just the pants, instead of binding the hem, I just lengthened the pant legs and folded them over twice to hem. Then I appliquéd a big monster onto store-bought t-shirts. These were also a big hit with the kids.

Bedtime Story Pyjamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajama bottoms in flannel, size 5.

Summary

Pattern Review: Bedtime Story Pajamas by Oliver + S.

Fabric: flannel.

Sizes: 12m, 18m, 2, 3, 4, 5.

Sewing Level: intermediate (beginner, if just the pants).

Modifications:

I replaced the ties with snaps on the baby-sized jacket. When I made just the pants, I lengthened the pant leg and folded twice to hem, instead of binding the leg hem.

Results: Excellent! I would highly recommend this pattern.

Bedtime Story Pajamas
Oliver +S Bedtime Story Pajamas in flannel, size 5.

These are also part of the Stashbusting Sewalong Challenge. I made these for February’s ‘Love’ challenge where the goal is to sew something for someone you love.

Sew for Victory : My Grandma’s Wedding Dress

Sew For Victory! A 40s Sewalong
Sew For Victory! A 40s Sewalong. February 4 – March 31, 2013.

This week, Rochelle, from Lucky Lucille launched Sew For Victory! A 40s Sewalong. So exciting!

I really wanted to participate, but the 1940s are difficult for me. I love the art deco styles from the 1920s and 1930s. I like the mod styles of the 1960s. I appreciate that the styles from the 1950s flatter my figure. But I’m much less familiar with the 1940s fashion-wise.

Then it occurred to me that I have a real piece of 1940s clothing in my possession – my grandmother’s wedding dress. A few years ago, when my grandmother died, the dress came to live at my house. I had put it away and I hadn’t taken a really good look at it since.

So for the sew along, my plan is to remake my grandmother’s wedding dress.

My Grandparents in the 1940s

In the late 1930s in Vancouver my grandmother finished nursing school and began work as a psychiatric nurse. She and her friend bought a car, and throughout the 1940’s went on a number of road trips. She often told me the story of how on a trip to the states, she and her sister had stocked up on silk stockings, luxuries that were not available in Canada during wartime. She had to hide the stockings in the sleeves of her clothing to get them across the border.

In 1941, the car needed repairs, and my grandfather was referred for the job. My grandfather was a truck mechanic. During the war, he worked for Shell Oil assembling tanker trucks. Since his job was considered essential to the war effort, he wasn’t drafted.

My grandparents started dating in 1942, and on July 14, 1945, my grandparents were married. My grandmother wore a green wedding dress. When asked why she chose the colour green she stated simply that there were shortages during the war.

Canada in the 1940s

Canada joined the war effort in 1939. Conscription was ordered in 1944. Even though the population of Canada was only 11,000,000 in 1938, over 1,000,000 Canadians served in the war.  More than 40,000 did not come home.

At home, rationing began in 1942 and didn’t end until 1947, two years after the war ended. Clothing was rationed using a ticket system. Silk importation ended in 1941. Nylon was difficult to find as well.

My GrandMother’s Wedding Dress

My grandmother’s dress, is actually a suit. There is a 3-panel, A-line skirt that hits just below the knee. There is also a fitted jacket with 3/4 length sleeves, that buttons up the front.

The first thing you notice is the colour. It’s so green!

My grandmother's wedding dress
The skirt from my grandmother’s wedding dress. If you look closely you can see there are three panels, and it is an A-line skirt.
my grandmother's wedding dress
The jacket of my grandmother’s wedding dress. It is so green! And so sheer!

There have you gotten over the colour yet? No? Take another look.

my grandmother's wedding dress
This is the back of the jacket. You can see the princess seams.

Once you see past the colour, the dress design is pretty interesting.

The Skirt

The skirt is a simple three-panel A-line skirt. It looks like there are more panels in the back, but in fact, the dressmaker simply did inverted pin tucks to make it appear as if there were more pieces of fabric. The waistband is reinforced with grosgrain ribbon and there is a rather industrial-looking zipper and a hook and eye closure. The seams are not quite even and are just finished with pinking shears. The hem is hand-stitched and the hem has been repaired. Although the skirt is sheer, there is no lining.

The waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon.
The waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon.
The zipper is not an invisible zipper.
The zipper is not an invisible zipper.
The zipper is quite heavy for the fabric.
The zipper is quite heavy for the fabric.

The Jacket

The jacket has 3/4 length sleeves that are a little wider at the bottom. There are shoulder pads (factory-made) that fit into the caps of the sleeves. The back of the jacket uses princess seams. The front has a gathered, faux yoke at the top. At the waist there are triangular insets that allow for a second set of gathers. There is a row of clear plastic shank buttons that close with button loops up the front of the jacket. The jacket has a facing of synthetic fabric that is hand-stitched in place. It is also unlined. I think it’s about a 36 bust, so maybe, a size 18 in vintage sizes, and maybe a 10 today.

There are shoulder pads to help keep the sleeves puffed and they are attached with seams.
There are shoulder pads to help keep the sleeves puffed and they are attached with seams.
The sleeves are a little wider at the bottom.
The sleeves are a little wider at the bottom.
The dress is gathered in a faux yoke.
The dress is gathered in a faux yoke.
There are buttons at the front. I think they were originally clear. They might be a two-piece buttons that were glued together, and the glue appears to be discoloured.
There are buttons at the front. I think they were originally clear. They might be two-piece buttons that were glued together. The glue appears to be discoloured.
A close-up of the triangular panels at the waist.
A close-up of the triangular panels at the waist.
This is a better view of the jacket front where you can see the two areas that were gathered across the bodice.
This is a better view of the jacket front where you can see the two areas that were gathered across the bodice.

 Who Made the Dress?

The dress is clearly hand-made. This isn’t a factory dress or a department store dress and there are no tags at all. At first I thought my grandmother made the dress. However, family lore says she bought it in Vancouver. It must have been from a local dress-maker. It’s made well with good techniques (ribbon in the waistband, etc.), but shortcuts have been taken. For example, the inner jacket facing is made of several pieces of fabric.

The hand-sewn hem.
The hand-sewn hem.
The shoulder pads.
The shoulder pads.
dress22
The facing is made of two pieces of fabric.

The Fabric

The fabric is really quite sheer and very musty. I was tempted to hand wash it, but I did a fibre burn test on a small piece of fabric from behind the zipper. The fabric disappeared into grey ash. And then I took another tiny piece from the seam and hand-washed it and it shrank like crazy. I’m pretty sure this is rayon crepe. So I can’t hand wash it. Good thing I checked! It irons quite well though.

The Sew-along Challenge

The more I looked at the dress, the more I thought the dress itself would have been nicer if it just weren’t so green.  I figure, if I use a fabric without a floral pattern, and choose something a little prettier I might end up with clothing I would actually wear. Blue maybe? Black? In a sheer fabric? But lined, definitely lined. So yes, I’m going to try to remake the suit in a better colour.

What pattern to use?

This part is tricky, and I could use some help.

The skirt is almost exactly the same as Simplicity 3688. You can’t really tell from the photo, but the technical drawing does show a three-panel skirt. It’s such a simple design that I could probably just use any a-line skirt pattern. It wouldn’t even have to be a vintage pattern.

The jacket is another story. It’s is a little like the Vogue 8767 jacket. It’s even more similar to the blouse in Simplicity 3688. There is also the jacket in Vogue 1072. The part that is the most difficult to find, even in the vintage patterns I’ve seen, is the triangular insets at the jacket waist. If I can’t find anything else, I’ll probably use the Vogue 8767, but I’m hopeful that I can come up with something better.

Have you seen any patterns that more closely match the dress? Let me know in the comments.

Stash Busting Sew-Along

Have you ever wanted to take a peak into someone else’s fabric stash? Well here are a few photos of what’s in mine.

Ever since my last baby was born I’ve been enviously reading about all of the exciting sew-alongs that people have been organizing. I’ve been dying to participate, but a new baby sure cuts down the time available for that sort of thing. Until now!

Stashbusting Sewalong

EmSewCrazy of Tumbleweeds in the Wind and Cindy of Cation Designs started a new sew-along aimed at reducing your fabric stash. Here’s the schedule.

  1. January: Itty Bits!
  2. February: The Love Challenge.
  3. March: Impending Seasonal Change.
  4. April: The Vibrant Color Challenge.
  5. May: The Knit Challenge.
  6. June: Containment!

I only have a small stash, just one box, but I do want to use it up, so here’s my pledge:

“I, Shannon, commit to using 4 pieces of stash fabric in 2013.” 

It’s not a lot, but I want to keep my sewing fun.

And what exactly is in my stash, you ask? I got everything out and measured it. It’s so much easier to deal with,now that it is organized. Some of my stash is going to be pretty easy to sew up. I have about 1.3m of denim, a bit of quilting cotton that will make a dress for one of the kids, some brown corduroy.

Green Dot
Denyse Schmidt Flea Market Fancy quilting cotton Flower and Dot, in green (under 1m).  This one has been in my stash for just a couple of months.
Synthetic Baby Silk.
Synthetic baby silk (4.5m) in black with a pink and white floral pattern. This has been in my stash for at least five years. I had planned to make a dress with it.

But some things are a bit trickier to use up: some super stretchy red cotton that was meant for maternity wear a couple of pregnancies ago, about 1.5m of navy stretch velour, 1.5m of super plush faux fur in a jaguar colour scheme. If you have any suggestions for that faux fur, leave them in the comments.

Jaguar Faux Fur
Jaguar faux fur (1.5m) left over from Halloween costumes from a couple of years ago. This has been in my stash since 2010.
Blue stretch velour
Blue stretch velour (1.5m) left over from another Halloween costume. This has been in my stash for about ten years.

And the award for longest time spent in the stash goes to a 1.8m piece of 100 per cent pure silk. It’s a very pink shade of red and incredibly difficult to photograph. My late father brought it back for me on a trip to China in the 1980s. As you can see, it still has the price tag on it. He paid 160 Hong Kong dollars for this piece, which converts to about $20 CDN. In today’s prices, that would be about $40 CDN. It’s a great piece of fabric, but I’m more of a signal red fan. What do you think? Should it become a blouse? Or a super luxurious lining for a coat? Suggestions welcome.

Red Silk
A piece of red silk (1.8m) that my late father brought back from a trip to China in the 1980s. The price tag is still on it.